How to change Front Control Arms on Audi A6 Quattro

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The control arms of the car function as the arms that keep the car stable. Control arms may begin to fail as early as 60,000 miles, and it should be checked during regular maintenance. If you hear clunking or any extra sound from the front it is most likely your control arms or tie rods. This article will take you step by step on how to change Lower Control Arms on an Audi A6 quattro 3.0 2003. Note: Changing the lower control arms requires partial remove of the upper arms as well.

Things You'll Need

  • Jack and 1 jack stand.
  • Breaker bar and extension bar
  • 17mm or 5/8 hex
  • Ball joint removal tool
  • Set of wrenches
  • Penetrating oil
  • Joint split fork
  • You will need a breaker bar with 17mm or 5/8 hex to loosen the axle bolt. Extension might be needed as the axle bolt is extremely tight.

  • The wheel should be on the ground when loosening the axle bolt.

  • Next remove the wheel and jack up the car. You will need a jack stand as you will need the jack later to lift up the suspension with the car supported by the jack stand.

  • Wheels removed. Let the fun begin... First, You will need to have the break calipers/ rotors removed (check my ehow article on those if not sure)

  • With the caliper, and rotor removed.

  • In order to remove the wheel bearing housing, the upper control arm heads must be removed. Start by removing the pinch bolt, which is notorious for getting stuck. I sprayed some penetrating oil and mine came out without a problem.

  • Removing the upper control arms will require penetrating oil, and pickle fork to hammer it out. In my case, I had recently replaced it so it came out with a tap from my mallet.

  • Remove the Tie rod end and the upper part of the wheel bearing housing is free.(See my ehow article on tie rod change for more specific)

  • Moving over to the Front lower control arm (front). Remove the Sway bar link.

  • Remove the lower shock bolt.

  • Next remove the bushing of lower arms. You will need a 18mm wrench to fit into the tight space on one side.

  • Use an extension on the drive ratchet to break the bolt open as it will be on pretty tight.

  • Next remove the bolt on the rear arm. I again used an extension to break it open.

  • Closer look. Removing the bolt may require a bit of improvising to avoid the brake/fuel lines. If you have a new replacement bolt like I did, try to pull and hammer slowly to get it out, being careful to avoid the line.

  • Now that the bolts are removed from both lower arms. Finish removing the axle bolt that was loosened at the beginning.

  • Before completely removing the bolt, give it a soft tap to move the axle out of the wheel bearing.

  • Now the wheel bearing housing is free. Admire. The worst is over :) almost.

  • Using the pickle fork and a hammer, remove the rear arm. It took only 3 good stress releasing blows to get the joint down.

  • You will need this tool to remove the front arm. I tried to remove it with the fork with over 30 blows it didn't even budge. Using this tool, its only a matter of minutes, as you turn, there will be a loud clank once the part is loose.

  • Install the arm bushing end. Do not torque to specifics yet, only hand tight. You are supposed to torque it once the car is on the ground. I instead did it using the jack on the rear control arm head to get the suspension compressed.

  • Install the front head to the wheel bearing housing tightening the bolt then slip in the axle into position but not inserting just yet. This allows you to stretch out a bit further to install the rear arm.

  • Reinstall sway bar link, slip in the upper control arm heads and tie rod end head back into place along with everything else in reverse,and you are finished.

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