Things You'll Need:
- Rubber ring gaskets
- Plumbers grease
- Slip-slot adjustable pliers
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Step 1
Choose a hose. Reinforced rubber hoses work fine under normal circumstances. Newer hoses are made with plastic inner lines surrounded by braided steel threads. These hoses will stand up to greater pressure in the event of a backup.
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Step 2
Shut off the power to the washer and the dryer. Mark or lock the breaker box to keep someone from flipping the power back on before you finish.
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Step 3
Spread plumbers grease on the inner threads of the hose connectors, exposed threads at the wall supply connections and washing machine connections. Pull the ring gaskets out of the hose fittings and coat both sides with the waterproof grease. Push the ring gaskets back into the fittings as far as they will go.
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Step 4
Identify the hot and cold water supply valves on the wall, and the washer's hot and cold intake connectors. The hot valve is generally on the left side of the wall, and should be labeled "hot," "H" or with a red mark. The washing machine's hot and cold intakes are clearly marked.
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Step 5
Connect one hose at a time to avoid confusing the hot and cold lines. The hoses may be marked for hot and cold. Connect the hot water line to the hot water supply valve on the wall by twisting the threaded connection sleeve onto the threads at the valve. Tighten the connector by hand as far as possible, then secure it with adjustable pliers. Connect the other end of the hot line to the hot water intake on the washer in the same way. Repeat the process to connect the cold water hose to the supply valve and intake.
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Step 6
Turn on the hot and cold water supply valves. Twist the cranks on both supply valves counterclockwise as far as they'll go. Turn the power back on at the breaker switch. Turn the machine on to check your new lines for leaks.
