How to Install Ceramic Tile on Concrete
While installing ceramic tile over a concrete floor may seem a bit daunting at first, it is actually one of the easier tile installations. Concrete is an ideal surface for installing ceramic tile, and most concrete floors need very little preparation. Installing ceramic tile over your existing concrete floors independently will save you quite a bit of money, since hiring a contractor to do the job can be expensive. Does this Spark an idea?
Things You'll Need
- Trisodium phosphate
- Scrub brush
- Bucket
- Concrete patching/leveling product
- Tile
- Thin-set tile mortar
- Trowel
- Notched trowel
- Spacers
- Grout
- Grout float
- Clean rags
- Rubber gloves
- Safety goggles
- Concrete sander or acid etching agent
Instructions
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1
Mix a bucketful of the trisodium phosphate according to the manufacturer's instructions. Scrub the concrete floor with the scrub brush and trisodium phosphate solution until it is thoroughly clean. Allow the floor to dry completely.
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2
Examine the floor to identify any cracks that will need to be fixed before beginning, and repair the floor accordingly.
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3
Survey the floor for uneven areas, and use the patching or leveling product according to the manufacturer's instructions to create an even surface. Allow this product to dry completely before going further.
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4
Evaluate your concrete surface. It should be clean, dry and free of defects. However, if the concrete is too smooth, the mortar will not stick, so use a concrete sander or acid etching agent to rough the surface up a little bit.
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5
Plan the layout of your tile, starting in the center of the room. This is important because you will most likely have to cut some tiles, and you will want the cut tiles to be in the most inconspicuous spots.
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6
Mix the thin-set tile mortar according to the manufacturer's instructions. Don't mix too much at one time, because it will begin to harden fairly quickly. A premixed adhesive can also be used.
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7
Use the trowel to spread the mortar over a small area. Then comb through it with a notched trowel. Press the tiles into the mortar, jiggling lightly to set. Use the spacers to ensure that the spacing between tiles is even.
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8
Allow the mortar to dry once all of the tiles are in place. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's specified drying time, and give the mortar ample time to dry.
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9
Mix the grout according to the manufacturer's instructions. Use the grout float to liberally spread the grout over the tiles. Ensure that there aren't any uneven areas in the grout, and use a clean, damp rag to wipe the excess from the tile surface.
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10
Allow the grout time to set, and repeat Step 9. Allow the grout to dry completely this time.
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11
Use wet rags to wash the entire floor once it is completely dry. Allow it to dry, and rub the tiles with a dry cloth to remove any grout haze. You may want to use a grout sealer to prevent any stains.
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Tips & Warnings
Using a chalk line to create a grid when you are planning the layout of your tile will help keep the rows straight and even.
Lay only a small area of tile at one time. Mortar sets quickly, and if you make any mistakes or have trouble with a particular tile, you don't want to have to redo the entire floor.
Allow ample drying time for each step. This will help prevent mildew and mold forming in the mortar or grout.
Wear rubber gloves and safety goggles when using harsh chemicals.
Resources
- Photo Credit ceramic tile image by Karin Lau from Fotolia.com
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Comments
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The first line of tiles you throw MUST be as close to perfect alignment as possible. Even the slightest change of azimuth (alignment off 90 degrees) will continue to repeat somewhere in the tile-laying progress as you try to compensate for 4 tiles that fail to align themselves to a spacer. When you are buying your tile, purchase an 8 to 10 foot 2X6 that you pick out for its straight edge. Lay it edgewise on the concrete of the box store to find a board that is as straight as possible. Affix this board along your snap line and BUTT your initial row of tiles to the board, following spacing rules. After your initial row has cured, you will want to continue using the alignment board to extend the initial line to both walls.
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OK guys here is my deal. I want to put tile down in my kitchen. It is a cement floor and it is uneven. The corner I would start in is about 1" higher than the corner I would end in...what do I do? Thanks!
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Hey ronnie take time to drink one beer.
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Doin the hallway.
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christophermark
Feb 22, 2009
There is one step missing, which will cause you world of grief if skipped. Current standards for installing tile on a slab include placing what is called a crack isolation barrier between the thinset and the slab. This layer will prevent cracks in the slab generated by movement up through the thinset and the tile. These cracks can come from two sources. First through movement in the slab itself through shifting caused by settling in the soil under the slab, changing water tables or earthquakes - even very small ones. Second, even if you even out the high and low spots in your slab, there are going to be places that you missed. This creates stress in the tile eventually causing it to crack. Placing an underlayment almost eliminates the risks associated with these two conditions. There are several types of underlayment available. Check out your local big box hardware store for their sele
