How to Understitch a Seam

Understitching is a sewing technique used to keep garment linings and facings from rolling forward. It's a fast and easy technique that gives a finished appearance to clothing and ensures better draping.This article illustrates how to understitch by hand or machine using the classic Vogue Sewing technique.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Iron

1. After sewing a seam, trim, serge or grade the seam allowance to get rid of bulk. Don't forget to make small clips in the seam if it's curved.

2. Press the seam up toward the facing. After pressing, check to make sure that the seam is pulled down and creased precisely.

3. On the right side of the garment facing, do a close straight stitch along the seam line. Sew close enough to capture the seam allowance, about 1/4-inch from the seam itself. Or, use a small backstitch to hand sew.

4. Turn the facing to the inside of the garment and press once more. Don't forget to tack the facing down in strategic areas to also prevent rollover.