Things You'll Need:
- Socket and ratchet set (optional).
- Ratchet extension (optional)
- Open end box end wrench
- Putty knife
- Fender covers
- Safety glasses
- Mechanics gloves
- New manifold gasket
- Anti-seize compound
- Torque wrench (optional).
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Step 1
Shut down the engine and allow it to cool for at least 30 minutes. Both manifolds are extremely hot when the engine is running. Set fender covers on each fender to prevent paint damage.
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Step 2
Select the correct size open end box end wrench or ratchet, socket and extension. This procedure is much easier using the ratchet, socket and extension. Use your wrench to remove all of the manifold mount bolts. The manifold will now be free enough to access the gasket behind it.
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Step 3
Remove the old gasket using your putty knife. The gasket should come of mostly intact. Use your putty knife to remove any gasket material that remains on the engine block or the manifold. Any gasket material left on the mounting surfaces will cause leaks that inhibit engine performance.
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Step 4
Coat the new gasket on both sides with a light coat of anti-seize compound. Put the new gasket in place against the block mounting surface. The anti-seize compound will hold the new gasket in place and prevent the gasket from sticking to the mounting surface, making future repairs easier.
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Step 5
Push the manifold in against the new gasket and the block. Coat the threads of your manifold bolts with a light coat of anti-seize compound. This will protect the threads on the bolt and the mounting surface. Start all manifold bolts by hand to ensure that the manifold is positioned evenly against the block. Be sure that the gasket remains lined up with the mounting holes. If the gasket slips out of position it will leak.
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Step 6
Use your wrench or a torque wrench if required by the service manual to tighten all manifold bolts. Start the engine and check for any leaks. No leaks means you are done.
