How to Use a Pleater for Smocking

Smocking is a beautiful sewing technique found in heirloom children's clothing. It involves gathering the fabric in uniform pleats and then hand sewing a design on the tops of the pleats with embroidery thread. The pleats are formed with rows of gathering stitches that are later removed once the decorative embroidery is added. A pleater is a machine with a row of needles that automatically make gathering stitches for smocking. Look for pleaters at specialty sewing shops with heirloom sewing supplies. Here are some tips for using a pleater.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Pleater
• 1 inch wooden dowel rod about 20 inches long
• Strong upholstery thread
• Scissors
• Needle threader
• Pattern for a smocking design

1. Count the number of smocked rows in your pattern. Add two extra rows for holding rows at the top and bottom of the smocked design.

2. Cut a length of thread for each row. Make each length of thread at least 8 inches longer than the width of the fabric you plan to pleat. Use the thread to thread the needles of the pleater.

3. Lay the fabric out on a flat surface and carefully roll it around the dowel rod. Be very careful to get the fabric onto the rod evenly.

4. Insert the fabric covered rod into opening in the pleater. The ends of the rod should hang out of both sides of the pleater.

5. Guide the fabric to the gears of the pleater, making sure the top edge of the fabric lines up with the edge of the gear holding the needles. Begin turning the crank to move the gears. Crank the fabric through the pleater slowly, keeping the edge straight. When the needles become filled with fabric, push the fabric off the needles and onto the thread.

6. When all the smocking fabric has been cranked onto the needles, push the fabric onto the thread and unthread the needles. Hold the gathering stitches on each side and push the fabric to the center to form the pleats.

Tips & Warnings

• Try threading all the needles from the bottom to the top. This makes it easier to unthread the needles after pleating.
• Look for pleaters and smocking patterns at sewing stores that specialize in heirloom sewing.
• For beginner projects, start with a good quality cotton fabric. Thin or silky fabrics slide around and are harder to pleat.