Preparing the Walls
Step1
Look for cracks, nail holes and loose paint or plaster on the walls. Fix them first ('eHow to Patch a Hole in Drywall').
Step2
Be sure that the walls are clean and dry and that every surface is either painted or primed. You don't want to apply paste to a surface that will just absorb it - the paper might not stick.
Step3
Remove all the electrical plates after you've washed the walls.
Step4
Plan to start papering in a place that is inconspicuous, and remember that your starting point will also be your ending point. (Corners and the areas behind opening doors are good places to start.)
Step5
Beginning at a doorway or corner, measure a distance that's an inch or two shorter than the width of your paper. Make a mark at this distance - be sure to make the mark as light as possible so that it won't show through the paper's background.
Step6
Using a carpenter's level and a pencil, draw a vertical line from the floor to the ceiling through this mark. If you start at a corner, be sure to use the level, not the corner, as your guide. You will align your paper to this line - again, be sure to make the mark as light as possible.
Hanging the Paper
Step1
With a utility knife, cut a length of paper that's about 4 inches longer than the wall, from ceiling to baseboard. (With a large repeating pattern, you might have to cut the strips longer to make sure the pattern matches up from piece to piece.)
Step2
Apply paste to the paper (see 'eHow to Apply Paste to Wallpaper'). Or, if using prepasted wallpaper, follow the manufacturer's instructions. (Most professional installers apply paste even to prepasted wallpapers, but be aware that this voids some manufacturers' warranties.)
Step3
Start at the ceiling, aligning the paper with the plumb line you drew on the wall. Roughly 2 extra inches should flop against the ceiling, and 2 more inches should flop below the top of the baseboard.
Step4
Smooth the paper using a smoothing brush or a plastic smoother (which looks like a wide spatula without the handle). Remove wrinkles by pulling a section of the paper away from the wall until you reach the wrinkle. Smooth out the paper as you lay it back against the wall.
Step5
Smooth from the middle out, applying enough pressure to push out the bubbles but not pressing so hard that you stretch or tear the paper. If you have an air bubble that just won't budge, poke it with a pin and press down on the paper before the adhesive dries.
Step6
Trim the paper. Using a wide putty knife, press the paper against the ceiling, baseboard, or corner and trim it with a sharp razor blade. (The putty knife provides a straight edge to guide the blade.)
Step7
Continue with the next piece, aligning it with the one you just laid down. If a pattern just won't line up between two strips, match it at the most obvious spot - eye level.
Step8
Roll each seam with a seam roller, but don't press so hard that you squeeze out all the adhesive. Go back 10 or 15 minutes later and roll each seam again.
Step9
When you reach the end - the place where you started - you'll want to create a clean final seam. Lap the final strip of paper over the first strip and trim both simultaneously.
Step10
Be sure to wipe any excess adhesive off the paper, ceiling, baseboards and adjoining strips. Use a wet sponge, following with a dry rag.
How to Hang Wallpaper
Comments
riverhome said
on 3/23/2008 I have bought a 1981 mobile home and want to apply wallpaper. The walls look like they are pressed wood or some kind of paneling. Can I apply wallpaper and any suggestions on how to. river-rat
kb1gxk said
on 1/9/2008 What about "sizing" ? If I do need to use it, do you put it on before the glue or over the glue or mix it with the glue ?
Anonymous said
on 1/9/2008 Buy a roller (one you would use for painting) from your local hardware store and use it to saturate the prepasted wallpaper. The roller spreads the water evenly and makes the job that much quicker. I suggest using warm or hot water.
Anonymous said
on 6/11/2007 Seam rollers squeeze out all of the glue and then your seams will curl up. Try to smooth gently with your finger. I also overlap a micromillimeter because otherwise I end up with white joints when the paper shrinks.
Anonymous said
on 12/27/2007 I've found the sharpest, longest-lasting blade is on an X-acto knife. It doesn't tear the paper as much either (Forget the breakoff kind!)