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How to Transfer Images to Stone or Metal Using Liquid Light

A three-dimensional surface can take on a new look with the right superimposed image. This technique will allow you to transfer a photographic image using Liquid Light and a darkroom.

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    Difficulty:
    Moderate

    Instructions

    Things You'll Need

    • Brushes
    • Spray Polyurethane Finish
    • Stones Or Piece Of Metal
    • Acrylic Matte Medium
    • Gesso (if Desired)
    • Rubbing Alcohol (if Needed)
    • Watercolor Paper
    • Darkroom Equipment
    • Photo Negatives
    • Safelights
    • Liquid Light
    • tub, bucket or pan
    1. Prepare the Surface

      • 1

        Choose your stone or piece of metal. Keep in mind that an image will show up better on a light surface - and that, for this technique, you'll need a relatively flat surface.

      • 2

        Prepare the surface: Wash or wipe it down; scrub it if necessary to remove loose particles. Degrease it with rubbing alcohol if necessary.

      • 3

        Coat a metal surface with two coats of spray polyurethane - front and back - and allow it to dry fully to seal the surface and prevent it from rusting.

      • 4

        Coat a stone surface or sealed metal surface with two coats of acrylic matte medium - front and back - and allow it to dry fully.

      Transfer the Image

      • 1

        Heat the Liquid Light by placing the sealed bottle in a tub, bucket or pan of hot water. (It will begin to re-congeal if the temperature falls below 80 degrees F.)

      • 2

        Pour some Liquid Light onto your target surface area under safelight conditions in the darkroom, and spread it around using a brush.

      • 3

        Make several test strips at the same time by pouring Liquid Light onto watercolor paper.

      • 4

        Allow to dry in complete darkness for several hours. (The surface will be "good" for at least a week - check the bottle to be sure.)

      • 5

        Expose the image as you would a normal photograph - that is, test until you get optimum exposure time for your image.

      • 6

        Develop, fix and wash as usual - but you may need to modify your developing and fixing trays depending upon the shape of the object you're printing on.

      • 7

        Allow to dry fully. A piece of metal will probably dry in an hour or two; a porous rock may need to dry overnight.

      • 8

        Seal with clear polyurethane or acrylic matte medium.

    Tips & Warnings

    • Because you're going to be immersing your surface in water and photochemistry, it's important that it be well-sealed.

    • Coat the image area of the surface with gesso for optimum contrast. If you're using a light-colored piece of metal or stone, you may not need to do this.

    • Once Liquid Light dries, it can be handled like any commercial photo-sensitive paper - i.e., exposed, developed, fixed and washed. The main difference is that the emulsion is 10 to 20 times slower. For example, if you have an image that is normally a 15-second exposure, with Liquid Light you're looking at a 150- to 300-second exposure.

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