Difficulty: Moderate
Instructions
Things You'll Need:
- Tack Rags
- Belt Sanders
- Orbital Sanders
- Safety Glasses
- Sanding Blocks
- Sanding Sticks
- Sandpaper
- Safety Glasses
- Sandpaper
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Step 1
Place wood so that the grain (the natural lines appearing on the wood) runs vertically.
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Step 2
Rub sandpaper along the wood in the same direction the grain is running.
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Step 3
Sand until rough edges and seams are smooth.
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Step 4
Rub with a tack cloth.
Comments
peekaboo4u said
on 10/12/2009 A major misconception is to sand all woods from low grit, let's say 60 - 80 grade upward in succession to 100, 120/50, 180 and further to 240 and beyaond. But this should only apply to close grain hardwoods like cherrywood, maple or similar exotic woods. Soft woods like pine, popular, butternut do not need to be sanded beyond 220 grit since the grain will clog up. Open grain hardwoods like walnut and mahogany need not be polish sanded either unless the grain is filled then further hardened.
I have been using garnet paper for over 30 years and on occasion have tried the new editions of aluminum oxide, however, in my opinion the consistency of the grit in garnet paper is most compatible to wood. Also, heavy scratches or light surface gouges are best removed with a scraper prior to sanding. Always handsand in the direction of the grain. Of the group of mechanical sanders available on ...
Jered said
on 7/8/2008 I've found that on some woods you can get a greater depth of shine by working from 100 grit, all the way up to 1000 grit. The wood must first have the grain raised by misting water onto it and letting it dry, then using 120, 240, 400, 600 and 1000 grits to burnish the wood, this leaves it incredibly smooth and takes linseed oil fantastically!
Anonymous said
on 4/2/2006 Sand with a 400 grit paper after stain dries. This will usually bring out blemishes, such as, planer marks or bumps too smooth to notice when first sanding. Re sand, using 60 to 80 grit and work down to 220 grit. You will not regret doing it right.