How to Quiet Noisy Pipes

The squeaking and banging you're hearing probably results from too loose or tight a fit as your pipes pass over or through wood framing. This is especially likely for heating and hot-water pipes. When shutting a faucet or other valve suddenly stops fast-flowing water, the shock (called water hammer) creates a loud bang.

Difficulty: Challenging

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Foam Pipe Insulation
• Pipe Cutter
• Straps Or Hangers
• Drill And Drill Bits
• Foam Pipe Insulation
• Hammer
• Nail Puller
• Pressure Gauge
• Plumbing tools, pipe and fittings or commercial air chamber, solder or fittings appropriate for pipe system

For pipes that contact wood framing

1. Water pressure in excess of 50 lbs. per square inch (psi), or 3.5 kg per square cm, can cause noisy pipes. Test for excessive pressure by attaching a pressure gauge to an outdoor faucet. Some gauges mark the high point reached over any period of time. Control excessive pressure by having a pressure regulator installed on your water system.

2. Secure loose pipes to framing with straps or hangers as needed to prevent movement.

3. Remove any pipes that fit tightly into holes drilled through framing members. Enlarge the holes (usually you do so with a drill bit larger than the one originally used), then reconnect the pipes.

4. Cushion copper pipes where they contact framing or framing hardware. Cut short lengths of foam pipe insulation and remove any straps or hangers so you can wrap the insulation around the pipe (you may need a nail puller). Reinstall the straps or hangers with a hammer or other appropriate tool.

For a loud water hammer

5. The air-cushioning chambers that codes require for most fixtures and appliances, typically a short length of capped pipe that extends up from the water pipe, is probably waterlogged (filled with water rather than air). To restore air to the chambers, shut off the water main, open the faucets and drain both hot and cold water from the system. Turn the water back on, closing faucets as soon as water is flowing without air.

6. If any plumbing fixture or washing machine lacks an air chamber, drain the water lines to install one on the hot and cold lines. Ideally, you should install the air chamber immediately inside the wall behind the fixture or machine. If you must cut out drywall, see How to Repair Minor Drywall Damage.

7. Cut out a short section of pipe, as close as possible to the faucet, and install a T-fitting, a nipple (a very short length of pipe) and a reducer fitting that will allow you to connect a 1-foot (30-cm) length of pipe larger than the supply pipe. Install a cap fitting to complete the air chamber.

Tips & Warnings

• Excessive water pressure can damage any appliance that connects to a water line.
• Special water-cushioning devices that contain air bladders are superior to pipe chambers because they won't become waterlogged.
• Don't ignore a banging water hammer. It can do considerable damage to your home's hot and cold pipe system.

[burntatsea]

on 4/19/2007 My house pipes only bang just as either of two toliet tanks is about full again after having flushed one. To stop the banging, I turn on a nearby faucet for about five or ten seconds. It only seems to do this when water pressure is really low in the house, like between 20 and 30 pounds, while I'm irrigating. I'm on a well in the country. I have no problems when my pressure is from 40 to 60 pounds, while not irrigating. Please help.

on 4/16/2007 I have searched several web sites seeking a solution to my noisy water pipes. My problem was only in the hot water lines. Every time a valve was opened, the pipes would rattle and have a popping sound. I tried applying water hammer arrestors and putting foam padding around the pipes where they were fastened against any framing members. All of theses failed and the pipes continued to rattle. I read on a website that the sound may be caused by air trapped in the lines. My ultimate solution was to open all the valves and then one by one start closing them. I started closing valves closest to the tank and worked my way to the furthest point from the tank. I noticed when I did this, air was released from the lines. I also released the emergency valve on my hot water tank and air was released from the top of the tank. Apparently I had an air pocket trapped in the top of the hot water tank. This solution worked for me, and I hope it is helpful to someone else that is searching for a solution that is really easy, but apparently hard to diagnosis.

on 1/6/2006 If you live in an old apartment block that shares high pressure mains water supply between floors, and has loud water hammer, then consider adding a one-way valve to prevent gravity shudder. This is when an opened tap on a lower floor creates reverberations to the upper floors. The valve, when applied just above the lower floor, stops the water from dropping from the pipes above and prevents pressure fluctuations.

on 11/22/2005 Banning may cause the geyser (or the pipes going into the geyser) to start leaking. This creates a big mess!