How to Make Bonsai Pottery

Bonsai pots are often square and simple.

Bonsai pottery is designed to accentuate, and never overwhelm, the beauty of a bonsai tree. Trees are planted in low, shallow clay dishes that are glazed in earthy, subtle colors. Bonsai pottery can be thrown on a potter's wheel or built by hand. The simple shapes are conducive to hand building and can easily be made by beginning potters. Traditional bonsai pots are often rough and earthy, so use your imagination and don't worry about perfection.

Things You'll Need

• 10 pounds of potter's clay
• Pail of water
• Fork
• Knife
• Rolling pin
• Uncoated canvas or newspaper
• Ceramic glaze

Instructions

1. Roll out a large slab of clay with a rolling pin; make the slab at least 10 inches in diameter. Roll the slab on a piece of newspaper or uncoated canvas fabric. Make sure the slab is at least 3/8 of an inch thick so it is sturdy for forming.

2. Trim the edges of the slab with a knife and straightedge to a square or rectangular shape.

3. Dry the slab until it is almost leather hard. It should begin to stiffen up but still be pliable, and shouldn't be sticky on the surface. Clay is stronger and easier to shape in the leather-hard stage.

4. Use a sharp knife to cut out 30-degree triangular sections of each corner of the square or rectangular slab. The cuts should be between 1 and 2 inches at the point of the triangle. The length of the cut will become the depth of the sides of your pot.

5. Use a fork dampened with water to roughen the edges around each cut. Apply a little slip (dampened clay powder) on the roughened edges.

6. Bend the edges of the triangular cuts together gently. When they touch they will form one corner of your bonsai pot. Repeat this step for each corner, gently shaping the pot overall as you work.

7. Roll out two thin coils of clay, about 8 inches in length. Pinch off 1- or 2-inch pieces of the coil. Scratch and dampen one side of the coil and push it into the inside of each corner of the pot. Smooth and press the coils into the corners to strengthen the bond between the edges.

8. Dampen a small sea sponge (available at most craft stores) and rub it over the inside and outside edges of the corners, reinforcing and smoothing the seams.

9. Add texture to the outside of the pot for added interest. You can use almost any object to carve into to the pot, or even draw into it with your fingers or a pencil.

10. Allow the pot to dry to the point that you can pick it up without losing its shape. Gently turn it over. Scratch and dampen the inside edges of the bottom of the pot.

11. Roll out two long 1/2-inch thick coils of clay. Scratch and dampen one side of the coils and gently push the roughened edges of the pot and coils together to form a foot for your pot. Push a smaller coil into the inside of the foot for reinforcement. Smooth and shape the foot with your sponge.

12. Flip the pot over gently so it is evenly sitting on the foot to dry. Cover the pot loosely with plastic and allow it to dry slowly and completely until no longer cool to the touch.

13. Bisque fire the pot to between cone 06 to 04.

14. Glaze the pot in earthy colors and fire to a temperature appropriate for your clay and glaze.

Tips & Warnings

• Drying clay slowly reduces cracking in the corners of the pot.

• Wear a face mask when working with powdered clay and glazes.

• Wear latex or plastic gloves when applying glazes.

References

• Ceramics Arts Daily: Handbuilding Techniques
• Creative Paradise Inc.: Clay Hand Building Techniques

Resources

• American Museum of Ceramic Art