How to Sew a Cover Stitch with a Serger

The ability to create a cover stitch is coveted by sewers everywhere who yearn to create a professional finish on their projects. The stitch is both decorative and functional, according to sewing legend Nancy Zieman in her book, "Serge With Confidence." The stitch can be used as a top stitch, as a hemming stitch for knits because of it elasticity and as a decorative lace hemming stitch. Not all sergers can create the cover stitch, so check the instruction manual for your model serger.

Things You'll Need

• Serger
• Thread
• Scrap fabric
• Project fabric

Instructions

1. Thread the machine according to the serger's instructions. Sergers can use either two or three needles for the cover stitch. Cut all the threads to 4 inches, after the machine is threaded. Pull the threads behind the machine and out of the way.

2. Cover or disengage the serger blades. The blades are not used in cover stitches and the upper looper. The serger works on the looper system in which thread is looped around the top and bottom of the fabric and is caught by a thread going through both loops. In regular serging, the blades cut the excess fabric as it is stitched.

3. Place a scrap piece of fabric first underneath the presser foot, which holds the fabric down onto the needle plate so it can be stitched, with the project fabric right next to the scrap piece.

4. Start to serge slowly, allowing the first stitch, called the anchor stitch, to stitch onto the scrap piece of fabric. Doing this will prevent the thread from jamming underneath the needle and depositing a bulky stitch on the project fabric. Stitch to the end of the seam. Cut the threads on both the project fabric and scrap fabric.

References

• Serge With Confidence; Nancy Zieman; 2006.
• Simple Serger Sewing; Julie Johnson; 2009.
• Creative Serging; Nancy Bednar and Anne van der Kley; 2005.