How to Sew a Curved Hem

Curved hems can be a little more difficult to make than straight hems, since you have to fold in the excess fabric. For slightly curved hems, such as those at the bottom of many skirts, you can use the same techniques as you would for a straight hem and just make the hem narrow (about 1/4 to 1/2 inch). For heavily curved hems, like those on the lower edge of rounded pockets or appliqués, you can make the hemming easier by clipping the fabric around the curve. Unlike straight hems, which use two folds to encase the raw edge of the fabric, curved hems only use one fold, so you may want to use a zigzag or decorative stitch when you sew the hem to help keep the edge from raveling. Here are steps.

Things You'll Need

• Garment or fabric
• Matching thread
• Scissors
• Measuring tape
• Straight pins (optional)
• Iron
• Sewing machine or hand sewing needle

Instructions

1. Place the fabric right side down.

2. 

   Cut small slits, about 1/4 inch deep and 1 inch apart, in the curved edge of the fabric. These slits will help the curved edge of the fabric lie flat when you fold it.

3. 

   Fold the edge of the fabric over 3/8 to 1/2 inch toward the wrong side. Make sure the width of the fold is consistent for the entire hem.

4. Pin the fold if needed to hold it in place.

5. Press the fabric along the fold (removing any pins just before you iron that section). You may want to use steam as you press firmly to hold the fabric in place.

6. To sew the hem by machine, stitch along the folded fabric, about 1/4 inch from the top edge. You can use a straight stitch, but you may want to use a decorative or zigzag stitch to help keep the edges of the fabric from raveling.

7. To sew the hem by hand, thread the needle and tie a knot in the end of the thread. Whip-stitch the top edge of the fold to the fabric, taking care to poke the needle through only the tiniest amount of outside fabric to prevent the stitches from showing.

Tips & Warnings

• If you don’t have a steam iron, you can put water in a plastic spray bottle and mist the fabric before you iron it.

• For curved appliqués and pockets, you may want to skip sewing the hem and just press it. You can sew the hem in place when you sew the appliqué or pocket to the fabric.

• Use caution when working with irons, scissors, sewing needles and sewing machines.