How to Sew a Hem

Hems keep the edge of the fabric from raveling, and make the garment or project look nice. To make a hem, you’ll want to fold the fabric over twice, so that the raw edge of the fabric is encased in the fold. The size of the fold depends on the project and your personal preference. Small hems (about 1/4 inch for each fold) are the easiest to make, especially for skirts or dresses that are wider at the bottom. Large hems (1 inch or more) can work well for straight edges such as pillowcase openings. You can sew the hem by hand or by machine. Machine hems are faster but stiffer, and work well for projects such as bags, jeans and curtains. Hand-sewn hems take longer but work well for projects like fancy dresses, since the stitches show less and the garment will retain its flow.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• garment or fabric
• matching thread
• measuring tape
• straight pins (optional)
• iron
• ironing board
• sewing machine or hand sewing needle

How to Fold and Sew a Hem

1. Place the fabric right side down.

2. Fold the edge of the fabric over toward the wrong side. Make the width of the fold the measurement you’ve chosen, and make sure the width of the fold is consistent for the entire hem.

3. Pin the fold in place if you’re making a large hem or using slippery fabric.

4. Press the fabric along the fold (removing any pins just before you iron that section). Press firmly to hold the fabric in place.

5. Fold the edge of the fabric over again, using the measurement you’ve chosen.

6. Pin the new fold if necessary, then press the fabric along the fold.

7. To sew the hem by machine, stitch along the folded fabric, about 1/4 inch from the top edge, using a straight stitch or a decorative stitch. Some machines also have a hem stitch setting that minimizes how much the stitches show.

8. To sew the hem by hand, thread the needle and tie a knot in the end of the thread. Whipstitch the top edge of the fold to the fabric, taking care to only poke the needle through the tiniest amount of outside fabric to prevent the stitches from showing.

Tips & Warnings

• If the edge of the fabric is uneven, trim it before folding it to make the hem.
• If you don’t want to sew, you can follow the folding and pressing directions for the hem, then hold the hem in place using a strip of fusible web. You can find fusible hemming products in many fabric stores.
• Some sewing machines have a special foot for making rolled hems. These very narrow hems work well for projects like handkerchiefs. Check out the instruction manual, or manufacturer’s website, for directions on how to use a rolled hem foot.
• Use caution when working with irons, sewing needles and sewing machines.