How to Make a Bra Pattern
Designing and pattern making for lingerie is one of the more difficult areas of fashion due to the many curves, angles and odd measurements. Also your ability to be precise is tested during each step of the process. Make your own pattern for a bra that fits you just right.
Things You'll Need
- Measuring tape
- Pencil
- Paper
- Ruler
- French curve template
- Circle templates
- Right angle or T-square
Instructions
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Take your measurements
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Measure around your center bust line. Start at the side seam, go around the center of both breasts to the other side seam, and then around the back at the same level holding the measuring tape taught, but not indenting the flesh.
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2
Get your bust point. Measure your bust point by holding the measuring tape tight from the center of one breast to the center of the other breast.
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3
Figure your cup size. You want to measure from the middle of the shoulder to the bust point. Remember to do this for each breast as each one is a slightly different size even on the same person.
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4
Measure your chest next, holding the tape taught from one arm pit to the other above the breast.
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Take your underbust measurement the same way you did your bust line only at the underwire level.
Draft your pattern
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Draw your larger sections with straight lines first. Use your ruler, right angle, and French curve template to set your measurements to paper. Add seam allowance to each line after you sketch each section.
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Draft the cups next. Since the cups are the most rounded pieces, a template with various circle sizes can help give you the shape. Also use your French curve and right angle together to get the proper curve angle for each cup of the bra.
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8
Sketch and re-sketch. There is a lot of room for error with so many curves and angles, so it is wise to draw, measure, re-draw, and measure again until you are confident your pattern is precise.
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Test your pattern. Always create a mock-up of your pattern and see how it fits before using it with your final fabric. Designers have fittings for a reason and it all starts with the mock-up and adjustments are made from there. The same holds true here.
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Tips & Warnings
Have someone measure you instead of measuring yourself.
Stand up straight in bare feet holding your arms to the side, and wear only a bra or nothing on top.
Many patterns are simply adjustments of existing patterns. Another way to draft your bra pattern is to dismantle your existing bra, trace each section and make appropriate adjustments from there. This method is easier and quicker and it can give you an excellent starting point for drafting your bra pattern from scratch.
Another method is to use drafting software. You type in the measurements and it draws your pattern for you. This is a good idea if you plan to make many bras for several people.
Comments
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.......... what? I was looking to see if it had any useful tips for something I am making. nothing I don't already know. I already made this part anyway(after reading this mind you) and just settled on my usual technique for making anything that has to go around curves like this. I do agree with the earlier post though. "sketch and re-sketch" just means trial and error. personally, I just custom fit things and forget the traditional measuring for such things as cup sizes. it is annoying enough my breasts are not small... so... the cup sizes are really just a guideline for generalized buying and manufacturing. if your making your own bra it is irrelevant unless you are wishing to make them for others. If it is just for yourself their are much easier ways to measure. Anyway, I make my own patterns mostly so... this is about what you have to do in general but... definitely lacks the "how to" aspect. perhaps if the writer specifically was talking about for yourself or someone else it would have been better as to be perfectly honest, bras are very personal things and the exact measuring you can do for yourself... is also very personal. someone else may not be so comfortable with it, which is why they make sizes, but for a general article like this... she should have included at least a conversion table.
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tagette
Sep 08, 2009
In an old book of mine called the 'Son of Hassle Free Sewing' are instructions for a choli, which is very similar to a bra top. It gives a neat way of making and fitting a muslin pattern. Choli's fastens at the neck as well as the usual place. I am not sure if the book is still in copyright, published in 1974. Authors Wiener and Rosenburg. If not, let me know and I will post instructions. -
darthfabio
Apr 06, 2009
what BS!!! "Sketch and re-sketch"THAT'S CALLED TRIAL AND ERROR AND THAT MEANS YOUR DIRECTIONS ARE TOTALLY WORTHLESS!!!!
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kjacobus
Jul 27, 2008
I would call this "tips when drafting your own bra pattern" rather than "directions on how to make your own bra pattern," because you cannot take these instructions and draft a bra. Saying, "Use your ruler, right angle, and French curve template to set your measurements to paper," does not tell you what measurements to use nor how to translate them to paper. I sincerely hope the author of this revamps this article to give full instructions or else renames it for better accuracy.
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kjacobus
Jul 27, 2008
I would call this "tips when drafting your own bra pattern" rather than "directions on how to make your own bra pattern," because you cannot take these instructions and draft a bra. Saying, "Use your ruler, right angle, and French curve template to set your measurements to paper," does not tell you what measurements to use nor how to translate them to paper. I sincerely hope the author of this revamps this article to give full instructions or else renames it for better accuracy.
