What Is Worsted Wool Yarn?

Worsted wool describes how yarn is processed.

To most people, wool is wool. But knitters and hand spinners know there are differences. For example, a merino sheep produces soft fine wool, while a fleece from a corriedale is a medium wool, with a lot of crimp. There are other qualities too, including how the yarn is prepared and spun. "Worsted" describes how the wool fleece is processed to produce a strong, durable yarn.

History

Tribes in northern Europe were spinning wool and weaving it into cloth as early as 10,000 BC. Tribes probably added twist to the fiber by drawing it out with one hand, while rolling it between their fingers on the other hand. The next milestones in spinning technology were the spindle followed by the spinning wheel. The term "worsted" comes from a village in East Norfolk, England called Worstead, to describe the manner of combing and spinning wools practiced in that village.

Fiber Preparation

After shearing, a fleece is washed and prepared for spinning. The first step is to card the wool fiber, which opens and separates the fiber so it can be drafted. For a worsted yarn, the next step is to comb the yarn, which aligns the fibers and removes any short fibers. In "The Knitter's Book of Wool," Clara Parkes explains that the difference between carding and combing is like the difference between brushing and combing your hair: Brushing leaves it fuzzy, while combing leaves it sleek and shiny.

Spin

The technique for creating a worsted yarn is called a "short draw," which means that the spinner adds twist to the combed fibers in short lengths. This method creates a smooth, durable yarn. Yarn manufacturers use the same basic technique, but on a much larger scale than a hand spinner.

Uses for Hand Knitters

The tight twist of worsted wool yarn makes it smooth, so it has excellent stitch definition and a good choice for detailed color work. The twist also affects gauge. You will have fewer options of needle size before the fabric becomes too tight or loose. Worsted wools are also durable, so it is a good choice for hardwearing garments like socks. However, because it is less lofty than other woolen-spun yarns, worsted wool does not trap as much air, so it may feel cooler.

Worsted vs. Woolen

There are two general classifications of commercially available wool yarn, woolen and worsted. In general, a woolen-spun yarn is loftier because the fibers are only carded before spinning. This technique leaves some shorter fibers and loosely arranges the longer ones that create the airy appeal of woolen yarns. A worsted-spun yarn, on the other hand, is spun from combed and aligned fibers which result in a smooth, durable yarn.

Confusion

Knitters should be aware that "worsted" also describes a yarn thickness. The Craft Yarn Council of American defines a yarn that knits to the gauge of 16 to 20 stitches per inch as worsted. This term applies to yarn made from any fiber, not just wool.

References

• International Wool Textile Organization: The History of Wool
• "Textile Manufacturers in Early Modern England;" Eric Kerridge; 1985
• "The Knitter's Book of Wool;" Clara Parkes; 2009
• Knitty.com: Worsted Yarns and Worsted Spinning - Spinner's Glossary
• Craft Yarn Council of America: Standard Yarn Weight System