Laminated Particle Board DIY

Using plastic, formica-style laminate to build rugged work surfaces and countertops has become a skill that the average cabinet maker takes for granted. To the uninitiated, it may seem like something of a mystery. Using contact cement to attach plastic laminates is a fairly simple process once you understand the steps needed for successful application. With a few readily available tools and supplies, you can learn to laminate particle board for use in remodeling.

Setting up

Lay your particle board out flat. Measure the width and length of the piece, then use a table saw with a fine-toothed plywood blade to cut the piece to size. For best results, cut your piece at least an inch outward from your initial measurements on every side.

To make installation easy, cut wooden dowels a little longer than the narrow dimension (width) of your particle board. Cut one dowel for every 10 inches of length (the longer dimension).

Make sure your particle board gets a good even coat of contact cement. Use a small short nap roller with long, even strokes to get the best coverage. Lay your laminate on a level smooth surface, and apply a similar coat to the back side of it. Allow drying time according to the manufacturer's instructions; for solvent-based adhesives, allow three to five minutes to achieve maximum hold. For water-based adhesives, allow for more time and use a heating gun to speed the drying process.

Installing the Laminate

Lay your wooden dowels on the particle board spaced about 10 inches apart. Place your laminate on top of the dowels with the contact cement down. Line up the ends and edges carefully; once you've placed the laminate, you'll find taking it up without breaking it quite a challenge. Remove the first dowel, and press the laminate firmly onto the particle board so that the two layers of contact cement bond. Smooth the laminate into position beginning at that end. Remove each dowel as you come to it. Smooth the laminate from the inside toward the edge to avoid bubbles.

After removing the last dowel, tap the outside of the laminate firmly into place with a rubber mallet to help eliminate air pockets. Use a hammer with a block of 2-by-4 board if you don't have a mallet. Stay well back from the edge of the laminate to avoid breaking it. Use a heavy rolling pin or J roller to press the entire surface of the laminate one more time for good adhesion.

Remove the excess using a router with a laminate cutoff bit. Set the bit so that the bearing rides on the edge of the particle board. Make sure the blade cuts the entire thickness of the laminate. Wax the bearing to avoid burning it out. Run the router smoothly and steadily in a counterclockwise direction around the piece. Clean up excess adhesive with a little acetone or nail polish remover.

References

• Hometime: Making Laminate Countertops