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Serger Sewing Techniques

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By Michelle Powell-Smith
eHow Contributing Writer
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Serger sewing machines are a useful tool, particularly if you routinely sew knitting. A serger finishes and sews a seam in one step. Serged seams have a significant amount of stretch, making them ideal for fabrics with stretch. A serger can also flat lock seams, create a neat rolled hem or finish raw edges if fabric is going to be sewn on a standard straight stitch or zig-zag sewing machine. Sergers can be a bit fussy to use or downright confusing, so learning serger sewing techniques can make the most of your investment.

    Threading Your Serger

  1. Most home sergers have three to four threads. Modern sergers include color-coded threading paths for each needle and looper. Some newer serger sewing machines may have jet-air threading which auto threads the lower loopers. One easy option for threading the loopers on a serger is simply to tie the new thread onto the old and gently pull it through the looper threading system. You will always thread the upper looper first, then the lower looper, then the needles. If your thread has broken and this is not an option, you may find tweezers helpful. Be certain that you always unthread the needles if you need to rethread the loopers to prevent tangles and keep your serger running smoothly. As with any sewing machine, change your needles regularly for good results.
  2. Using Your Serger

  3. You will find many uses for your serger in the sewing room. You can use the serger to finish raw fabric edges before prewashing, to finish the edges of each pattern piece before you sew or to sew and finish seams in a single step. When you sew with your serger, a sharp blade cuts away the excess fabric. Make a simple adjustment to your patterns before you sew to help make even seams neater and easier. Most commercial patterns come with a 5/8 inch seam allowance; however, when working with a serger, 3/8 inch to 1/4 inch is more appropriate. Experiment with tension, stitch width and feed settings before you start sewing. A loose seam requires a tighter needle tension setting and loose threads along the edge usually indicate that you need higher looper tension.
  4. What Is Differential Feed?

  5. Differential feed is a feature on most sergers sold as of 2009. A machine with differential feed has dual feed dogs, one at the front and one at the back. Differential feed can allow you to work with fabrics with a different degree of stretch or to adjust to account for stretch in the fabrics. It can also help make it easier to ease and join fabrics. Finally, you can use the differential feed on your machine to gather fabrics in a single easy step. A setting of "N" means that both feed dogs are working at the same setting. If the serger is set from 1.3 to 2, the front feed dog will feed more fabric than the back, and at settings from .6 to .8 the reverse is true. Play with the differential feed on your machine to see which settings are the most useful.
  6. Rolled Hems

  7. Rolled hems create a neat, narrow finish suitable for a wide variety of fabrics. This can allow you to finish hard-to-hem skirts, make quick napkins or even finish the edges of ruffles for home decor projects. Remove the left hand needle of your serger and the stitch finger. Adjust your lower looper tension rather tight and your upper looper tension somewhat loose. Set the machine to a very short and narrow stitch. On many sergers, this will be indicated by an "R" on the stitch selection dials. Try your rolled hem on scrap fabric particularly if you are working with delicate fabrics or knits and adjust the tension as needed. You may find that the prettiest rolled hems require a nicer quality thread in your serger loopers. Woolly nylon produces a very nice, slighty fuzzy rolled hem.

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eHow Article: Serger Sewing Techniques

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