- Turn the power source off at the installation site and also at the electrical box in your home. If your electrical box is not labeled for the room you are working in, turn something on in the room that is running on the same circuit and wait for it to go off when you flip the circuit breakers. If this is not possible, turn off the power for the whole house until you are finished working with the wiring.
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Look at the existing wiring in the ceiling. You will probably see a sheathed wire with three smaller wires inside it, one white, one black and one green. Clean it up by removing any old tape. If the ends are frayed, cut back the ends a little and remove some of the sheathing. Connect the matching wires-- black to black, white to white and green (or copper) to green (or copper) grounding wire--by twisting them together, applying a wire nut and taping the joined wires with electrical tape, or follow the fixture manufacturer's directions.
Look at the electrical box in the ceiling. It will either have a central post coming down or a strap to attach the light fixture to. Most fixtures come with hardware for both setups. Screw the mount firmly in place, making sure the wiring is tucked securely into the electrical box and that the mount is flush with the ceiling. Don't leave any wiggle room when you screw it to the electrical box mount or the light will sit crooked. - Screw the correct wattage bulbs into the sockets so that they sit snugly but are not overtightened. Don't use a higher wattage than recommended; the heat buildup will either burn out the bulbs faster than normal or you run the risk of an electrical short and a possible fire. Attach the rest of the glass parts of the light fixture, keeping the gaskets between the glass and metal hardware. Turn the power back on.
