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Serger Machine Techniques

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By Caroline Fritz
eHow Contributing Writer
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Using a serger is a perfect way to complete a garment and lend a professional finish to home-sewn items. There are two types of sergers: four- and five-thread. Sergers feature a looper system that loops or wraps threads on both sides of the fabric. The needle secures both the top and bottom loops to the fabric as it passes through it. And there are several techniques that can be used for a custom look.

    Basic Stitches

  1. There are five basic serger stitches. These stitches can either have a wide or narrow seam width and a long or short stitch length. The three- or four-thread overlock is strong and durable. The chain stitch is used for an edge finish. The flat lock and ladder stitch is a two- or three-thread stitch and is used for decorative stitching. The cover stitch is used for hemming knits. The rolled edge is a decorative stitch used for napkin edges, lettuce-edge trim on garments or as a simple edge stitch.
  2. Seams and Hems

  3. A serger is perfect for creating professional seams and hems. The traditional three- or four-thread overcasting seam is specially suited for heavy fabrics that need a full seam allowance. The serger welt seam not only works well with heavy fabrics, it eliminates the bulk associated with the folded fabric. The traditional overlock seam provides a ready-to-wear look and is perfect for loosely woven fabrics. The French serger seam is suited for sheer fabric. The blind hem is for heavy fabrics such as wool and denim and the mock band hem is for lightweight woven or knit fabrics.
  4. Stitching and Thread Combinations

  5. Basic stitches can be combined with contrasting thread for decorative stitching. For example, heavy decorative chainstitching can be created by using a different-colored thread than the fabric and increasing the stitch length while increasing the thread width.
    Stretch smoking can be created by using elastic thread with the chainstitch and increasing the differential feed to gather the fabric as it is being serged. After serging, steam the stitches with an iron to shrink the elastic thread which smocks the fabric.
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eHow Article: Serger Machine Techniques

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