Suit Basics

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Original James Bond suit

Most men will have to purchase and wear a suit one day. Often complicated and intimidating to the non-fashion minded, the business suit is a garment that becomes easier with a bit of education---and the help of an honest friend or two. With a bit of help, a gentleman can have a wardrobe full of functional, handsome garments that suit a wide range of needs. Does this Spark an idea?

  1. Purchasing a Suit

    • A good suit is going to cost at least three figures, including tailoring. When going to the store, bring along at least $500 and a good pair of dress shoes---you'll need these for fitting. As Adam Rappaport of Style.com writes, it pays to do your research before stepping foot in the suit department. Study the latest styles, and keep in mind what, exactly, you're shopping for. There are many different fits, buttons, vents and features, and all of them convey a separate feeling from the others. A few minutes of prep work can save a lot of frustration and bewilderment later. And, if in doubt, bring a friend with good taste along with you.

    Types of Suit

    • Suits run the gamut from fashionable to conservative. The garment should fit the occasion; a trendy, dove-gray suit is going to look inappropriate at a board meeting, but will seem adorable at a wedding. For conservative times, look for a two-button suit and a notched collar; recommended colors are navy and black. For more festive events, one button in a lighter color is charming. According to Rappaport, the three-button suit "seems to be the standard young man's choice," and is good for all-purpose wear.

    Suits and Fit

    • Much like jeans, suits and fit change over time. What was stylish five years ago may look ridiculous today, so consult your research for what's proper according to setting. One focus point is the cuff; sleeve length often has to be altered, so specify exactly how much shirt you'd like to have showing. A good starting point is to leave a 1/4 inch of shirt cuff showing, with less for more trendy, shorter suits. For pants, the hem may be shortened or lengthened according to fashion. Narrow suits may be able to take a slightly higher hem, but this won't look so professional in more conservative environments.

    Buttoning and Wear

    • When buttoning a suit, the basic rule of thumb is to leave the bottom button undone. On three-button suits, most gents close only the middle button, leaving the other two open. A jacket should remained buttoned when standing. Vests should also have the bottom button open. According to Rosecrans Baldwin and Andrew Womack of the Morning News, "Your outside jacket pockets... should never be used unless your companion asks," so leave the chunky wallet at home in favor of a money clip, and keep it in your inside pocket.

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