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How to Understitch a Neckline Seam

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Summary: Understitching gives your seam a nice finish--particularly a curved neckline--since it keeps the lining or facing from rolling toward the outside and helps the seam allowance to lie flat without crumpling. Many people skip this step because they've never tried it before or aren't sure how to do it, but I strongly recommend understitching to achieve a beautifully tailored finish. Essentially, you're just going to stitch your bodice lining or facing to the seam allowance beneath--but not through to the fashion fabric of the bodice front. Stitching the lining to the seam helps it to stay in place.

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By Jennie Chancey
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I've been designing and sewing vintage-style clothing since I was 14, and I started my home-based pattern design business in 1998. My historically inspired women's clothing patterns...read more

Difficulty: Moderately Easy
Instructions
  1. Step 1
    Neckline curves clipped
    Neckline curves clipped

    Follow the steps given in your pattern to attach the facing or lining to your garment, clipping curves at the neckline if necessary.

  2. Step 2

    With the garment wrong-side up, iron the neckline seam up toward the lining (or facing), going carefully around the curves to prevent puckers.

  3. Step 3
    The purple material is the lining in this photo.
    The purple material is the lining in this photo.

    Now flip the garment back over so the right side is showing. Place your presser foot along the edge of the neckline seam on the lining (not on the garment fabric!), starting at the center back if the garment does not have an opening or as close to the corner of the opening if there is one. It's a little tricky to get the presser foot down at the corner, but don't worry bout trying to get it precisely next to the edge--just get as close as you can.

  4. Step 4

    Keeping the presser foot along the edge of the neckline seam, stitch all the way around the neckline, sewing the garment lining (or facing) to the seam allowance beneath. When you finish, clip your threads and press the neckline neatly. You'll have a beautiful, crisp edge and a wonderfully tailored look to your finished garment! You can also use understitching along the front or back edges of garments with button closures before adding buttonholes. This is a versatile sewing technique that will serve you well, so it's worth mastering.

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on 10/19/2009 I recommended you as well!

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on 10/19/2009 I recommended you as well!

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on 10/19/2009 Thank you so much for the wonderful demonstration!

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on 10/8/2009 Thank you for this demonstration! Understitching makes so much more sense now. :)

lindaloups said

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on 8/18/2009 Thanks sensibility! I'll keep an eye out for your tutorials :^)
I used the understitching technique yesterday and it was fabulous! Yay! ;^)

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eHow Article: How to Understitch a Neckline Seam

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