How to Lay Out Sewing Pattern Pieces

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Summary: When laying out sewing pattern pieces, consider the direction of the fabric grain for the best durability, the direction of the pattern for the best look and whether the pattern pieces can be turned upside down or not. Lay out pattern pieces onto patterned fabric with a demonstration from an independent fashion designer in this free video on sewing.

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By Rebecca Farrington
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Rebecca Farrington is a fashion designer and teacher, and she has her own brand of clothing called Ferinta. She started sewing her own patterns, and later, she attended fashion design...read more

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Video Transcript

"Hi, my name is Rebecca, and I'm going to talk about how to lay out sewing pattern pieces. So, lay out the pattern pieces, the pattern papers with all of the different pieces on them, and identify the ones that you're going to need for your pattern. Now, go ahead and, based on the size that you've chosen, cut along the line of that size. If you've chosen large cut along the line that is indicated L, and then all of the pattern pieces will be for that pattern, and they will be including the seam allowance so you don't need to add anything to them. Typically, you're going to cut two of everything, or you're going to cut two sides of everything by placing the pattern piece on the fold, so we usually have our fabric doubled over in half so we can cut them out at the same time. So, the most important thing when laying out pattern pieces is putting them in the correct direction for the grain. For example, this is the back of a men's shirt, and I definitely don't want to put it on at any kind of funny angle because the fabric's not designed to go that way. Not only do I want my pattern to line up, but the strength of the fabric lies in this direction or this direction, so if you put it at any angle the garment is not going to sit the way that it is supposed to on the body. So, this particular piece is the back piece, and indicated on here with these, this line with these arrows means that this is not an edge to cut along. This is an edge to line up on the seam. Usually, it's good to put pins in the corners or anywhere that it turns. Other pieces, such as this one you see the arrow on here indicating the grain where I'm going to lay it out on my pat, on my fabric here, and I am going to make sure that this arrow lines up straight. Oh, this is such an easy fabric. It already has lines on it for me. Another thing you need to think about is the direction that the pattern pieces need to be laid out on the fabric. So, this is the collar piece, and it would make most, it would be super easy to lay it out straight across this way and not use as much fabric; however, especially on striped shirts, it is going to look most aesthetically pleasing (prettiest) if it's laid out in the direction of the stripes as is indicated with the arrow. Another thing to think about is whether your pattern pieces can go upside down or not. On this particular fabric there is an up and a down, but if you're using a basic solid color, or a pattern that is the same up or down in some way then you could fit your pattern pieces on there; some up and some down. When you sew the garment together you won't be able to notice. So, those are some of the basics about how to lay out your pattern pieces on your fabric."

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