How to Catch a Wave when Surfing

Video Transcript

"Sean, after that wipe out, don't fear. Surfing is a very, very difficult to learn and master. It could take 20 years. Some people start when they're 2-3 years old and that's all they know is how to swim, surf, boogie board, and pure water man. There's still hope for you. Don't worry. If you would have started on a boogie board like me when I was 6, you would learn how to read the ocean, you would learn the currents, you would learn which way you need to go on a wave, but you're doing excellent for your first time. There's no need. It's all about balance. Balance is the most important thing when you're going to stand up. You want to center your feet underneath you, shoulder width apart just like you've been trying to do and just stand up as long as you can. These conditions are not the greatest to be learning how to surf in. You need a big open wide beach with a lot of white water, not minimum amount of white water as you can see we're having right now. The white water is after the wave face is broken. White water is just the way the wave is finishing up coming towards the beach. The open face is eventually what you're going to graduate into surfing, which is the curl of the wave. The shoulder of the wave is where you want to position your board so you can stand in perfect surf all the time. The white water is just the ending of the wave pushing towards the beach; perfect for beginning surf. Sean, don't take this the wrong way. You're excellent, and before you know it you're going to be standing up like any professional surfer there is that's moved to California. Sean, let's give it a try again. Turn around and do the 360 moves with your arms and your feet so you can face the beach. Once you've done that, I'm going to have you just sit here and wait and just practice laying on the board facing the beach. Okay, now there's this wave coming. Sean, get ready to paddle with your arms. That's right, swim, swim. I'm going to push, and stand up now. You almost got it. Watch your head. Sean, come back out here and we'll try all over again."