Replace Brake Pads on Mountain Bikes

"So I've picked my pads back up, I have my pad sandwich. Making sure that I have that lined up. You can sort of tell putting it in that that's not the right way because that hole up top there isn't lined up. So flop them around this way, wiggle them in, and it really is just a sort of wiggling operation. You want to try to keep the top of the pads pushed together so that they clear. I got the first one in, I heard it and felt it snap. And now I'm trying to wiggle the second one in there, and it doesn't really want to go, but I pulled the other one out, and now we're fully seated. You can see it's a real positive engagement. I can snap this back and forth and it's all good. Now I'm going to put my caliper back on my fork leg, and reinstall the brake. I undid a zip tie here just to show you folks at home how this is done. You've got your brake mount on your fork leg. No threads there. All the threads are on your adapter, which is nice because it means that if you mess up your adapter, you just replace a $25 adapter instead of a $500 fork. We've got this one threaded in, this one threaded in. This white stuff, I don't know if you can see the white stuff on the bolts there. That's Loctite, an anaerobic thread locker, which helps to keep vibrations from loosening your fork - well, your disc brake mount on your fork. Because of course, being a mountain bike, there's a heck of a lot of lot of vibrations you have to deal with. And I'm just going to tighten these up by hand. I'm an experienced mechanic and I have a good idea what the torque specification should be. All this stuff is listed in your owner?s manuals, and it should be 40 newton-metres or kilogram-feet, some crazy metric torque specification. You can convert that to pounds if you're a die-hard Imperial measurement user."