Return to article: How to Catch a Horse
on 8/20/2007 Another technique for catching your horse; we received a horse who was impossible to catch in the pasture and would approach no closer than 50' when it was feeding time (his previous owner hit him often). To help him be more comfortable I would stay far enough away that he would not bolt. I then walked sideways in a large circle around him, facing him the entire time. He's at a safe distance so he doesn't run, but he does turn and face me as I make the circle. As you walk around, make your circles smaller and smaller. Eventually you want to go from walking sideways to walking forward in a circle with the horse following you. A key factor here is getting the horses feet moving in a controlled fashion. You're also making the horse think and giving him a simple choice (vs. his other option which is the flight instinct). Don't bribe is right!
on 11/20/2006 This is good unless your horse is prone to charge at you. Go into whatever holding area you have your horse in, take your halter and lead rope with you and drape them over your shoulder so they dont get in the way. DO NOT look your horse in the eyes that only works on disney movies. Make sure that there is a distance between you and your horse and squat down. This does 2 things first it makes you smaller so your not as scary, and second it makes the horse wonder what your doing. Now be patient and wait for your horse to come to you, when it does it'll start sniffing you so dont flinch if you feel some slober in your ear. Now gently rub his nose and get up slowly and pet him all over, then walk away a little and your horse should follow you. If he doesnt then walk away and squat down again and repeat the process. Once he starts to follow you stop and pet him all over, it'll generally be easier to pet his chest and neck at this point. Now carefully drape the lead rope around his neck so he will know that he's caught and slip the halter on.
on 8/8/2006 If you know your horse is the type to run away, bring a treat with you. Walk up to the horse calmly and show him the treat. He will probably walk toward you. Give him the treat and slip a lead rope over his neck. Then, keeping a gentle grip on the rope, slip on the horses halter. Praise him and even give him another treat. The next time you try and catch him, he'll be more willing to let you halter him.
on 7/19/2006 I've seen this advice offered in many different places by many different individuals: "Hide the halter behind your back, give the horse a carrot, and then slip it on!" People, horses aren't stupid animals. When they see you walking up with one arm mysteriously hidden behind your back, they know something fishy is going on. Even if you do actually get close enough to feed the horse your little token of bribery, if this ever actually works for you, the horse will learn to simply snatch the carrot and bolt off the moment you pull out the halter.The easiest way to catch a horse is to establish your presence in the pasture as routine and make being caught a pleasant experience.
on 7/7/2006 The first step is to catch your horse with a tiny treat (call your horse's name with the halter in one hand and the treat in the other). Next, you put a halter on him then give him the treat. Brush him, pat him and give him two more little treats. Then you can start to tack up your horse and take it on a ride. Only work your horse hard 2-4 times a week and just ride fun the rest of the week.
on 6/30/2006 If you've heard that treats are good for catching horses, well, that's wrong. Horses are habit animals and will learn to expect treats. They could become pushy when you don't want them to. But treats are okay for a once in a while snack if your horse does well at something!
on 3/15/2006 Try not to act like your horse is only for your pleasure or your work, but treat him like a big puppy that needs hugs and congratulations. Act surprised when you see him like he bought you the best present - himself! But don't gasp too loud or it will seem like your getting hurt or are a predator. Pretend he's one of your friends and tell him stories about what happened to you, even though he can't understand you (it's better than angry silence), just don't scream if your telling a story about something bad. I learned that the hard way. Remember to treat your horse like a family pet that greets you after work/school or a friend that always listens to you.
on 3/20/2006 If you have a stubborn horse who just won't come to you no matter how hard you shake a pail of feed or call him, try giving him a treat after he comes to you (like an apple or a carrot), something out of the ordinary that he likes. Eventually he will start to think that every time he hears the rattling in the bucket you've got a treat for him. Do this for a while and eventually he'll get into a better habit of coming when called. :)
on 3/15/2006 When you go to approach or catch your horse, it is important to understand how a horse "sees." In common with most animals that are preyed on, the horse's eyes are positioned on each side or it's head, not the front. This affords them a very wide field of vision. With a huge field of peripheral vision available to it the horse has only two blind spots. One is directly behind it and another around six feet directly in front or beneath it's nose where vision is out of focus at the least. If you walk straight head on toward a horse, there comes a point where he can't focus on you because you are walking into his blind spot, so he will turn his head away or back up until he can see you again. When going to catch a horse from a field, the reaction described above could be interpreted as the horses not wanting to be caught, when in fact, if you approach from the side and the horse can keep you in sight, it will stand happily as you catch it. If you stand behind a horse it will generally turn it's whole body or head and neck to get a constant view. A young or nervous horse might easily react with a warning kick to an intrusion it cannot see. As most people know, don't approach a horse from behind and try to "see" like the horse sees so you can better understand them and catch them.
on 1/25/2006 For a horse that just won't come to you, shake a feed bucket and start making a trail of feed. They should follow. Don't do this every time. After a couple of times they will probably come at the shake of a bucket.
on 1/18/2006 Hoses have 2 goals in life; Live and reproduce. Usually horses have a sense that tells them to stay with the herd and since food is a bribe the horse may not be hungry or his compulsion to stay with the herd is stronger than the desire to eat.
on 6/11/2007 People should never try to teach by bribing. It will never teach a horse where his place is (submissive to you). If you are having problems with your horse being caught or coming to you, then that should be taken care of in the round pen and not in the pasture. Walk into the round pen with your horse and turn him loose. If he stays near you, then walk away. If he follows, then you are already ahead of the game. If he goes away, give him a moment to find his resting place. Then immediately give him the cue to come, whatever you use. If he resists, make him work. Then stop the pressure and call him again. If he still resists, repeat driving him away. This may take more than one session. Once he gets this, then start all over with the halter or bridle in your hand. It's not the quick and easy way, but it is the correct way to teach a horse. All of this talk of trying to bribe a horse with treats goes against any concept of how a horses mind works. It takes work to get good consistent results. Stop looking for a quick fix.
on 11/22/2005 If your horse doesn't like to be caught, or are scared but curious of you or others that work with your horse, try walking up to him slowly and squat every few steps so you look smaller to him. This will make your horse not as scared of you.
on 11/22/2005 I had the problem of catching my newest foal. For the first few days I had her in a smaller yard, so it was easier for me to catch her. Each day I spent hours with her. I took her for walks, brushed her and began some small horsemanship activities with her. By the end of the week I could go up behind her and she wouldn't run or kick, she would just accept my presence. I then had her in a paddock with an older horse, which doesn't run off, but follows me everywhere. If I patted him, she would want to join in so I patted her. She was rewarded for coming up to me. Food will not help, it will just teach the horse that whenever you are there he or she will get food. Spend more time on the ground with your horse and always talk in a soothing voice. Begin rubbing your hands all over the horse so it understands you mean no harm, but you are kind and gentle. This worked for me and I hope it helps you.
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