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Comments on How to Move to a New Home With a Cat

  • Linda Hernandez Mar 09, 2011
    I recently moved, and it took some time for my cat to adjust. She is still in the process, she cried non-stop for the first night. Continues to do so every now and than when she starts wandering the new environment. She also didn't eat the first day, and night. She also didn't use the restroom for a day. But finally on day two, she relaxed a little. It helped that I did keep some of her used litter in the box and kept her blanket and play toys spread out around the surroundings. By evening she was exhausted and finally laid out and went to sleep calmly. I know in given time she will be her own frisky self again. So don't give up just be patient, especially with the crying.
  • thewhisperer Jun 06, 2009
    Take the cat's own dishes, litterpan, bed, toys, etc with you when you transport the cat to the new place. Then you can provide the cat with his own items with his own scent on them when you let him out of the carrier. Keep him confined to a small room such as the bathroom until the moving is fully completed and you're sure that the house is escapeproof.
  • thewhisperer Jun 06, 2009
    ALWAYS transport a cat ANYWHERE in a secure pet carrier. THIS IS THE ONLY SAFE WAY TO TRANSPORT A CAT. NEVER try to transport a cat by doing such things as holding it in your lap in a car. At the new home, put the cat in the carrier in the bathroom or other small room with a door that can be shut, shut the door, then finish with that day's moving work. Let the cat out of the carrier when things settle down, return him to the carrier if more moving is to be done...to prevent him escaping if someone opens the bathroom door.
  • Nov 22, 2005
    My cat Abby and I moved from a huge home in the country to a moderate sized apartment in the city. She seems to be content with the living arrangement but because she no longer has stairs to climb, odd noises to discover or 3 floors to kitty-heaven to roam around, she finds herself bored. If you plan to move somewhere smaller with your cat(s) be sure you have plenty for them to do.
  • Nov 22, 2005
    Cats should NEVER be allowed to roam around outdoors unsupervised. Unless you want your cat to get into fights with other pets, kill birds or squirrels, dig up neighbors' gardens, or get hit by a car, only let her outside when you can keep an eye on her.
  • Nov 22, 2005
    It is a medically known fact that a cat's life expectancy is REDUCED by more than 50% if it is allowed to roam outdoors. They can be subjected to fights, disease from animals they catch, feline AIDS from mating with strays, feline leukemia from coming in contact with other cats, and rabies. Other awful factors can also occur, such as getting hit by a car, getting caught and harassed by kids who are cruel, ingesting rodent and pesticide poisons, and starvation. Declawed cats (even if they're completely healed) or cats that have undergone any kind of recent surgery have little or no defense against other predators, cats, or dangers. Coyotes have been known to hunt and kill small dogs. Cats are no different a meal to them.
  • Nov 22, 2005
    Okay, this is going to sound a bit nasty, but it really helps! It will help to adjust a cat to a new home and a new litter-box location. Before your move, save a plastic bag full of some used kitty litter (it doesn't have to have feces) and bring that with you when you arrange the new litter box location. Mix it in with the new litter and acquaint your cat with the litter box as soon as she feels a bit more settled. The scent of her own urine in the litterbox will help her know that it is hers and may keep her from marking in your new house! Also, it's never a good idea to bring an unneutered male adult into a new home. Males LOVE to mark. It cuts the spraying down a bit more if they're neutered.
  • Nov 22, 2005
    When you introduce a cat (a new cat to your old house or your old cat to a new house), take it to the litterbox first, and let it learn the house from there.
  • Nov 22, 2005
    Get a small face cloth and wipe it gently on the scent glands on the face of your cat (this may take some work because they don't like it much). Before you bring your cat into the new house, wipe the cloth coated with your cat's scent markings on corners in rooms where your cat may naturally mark. Because your furniture is already previously marked by your cat, it may help the adjustment if they feel like they're "king or queen of the castle" before they walk in the door. Also - NEVER tranquilize or medicate your cat with ANY human medications! Even Ibuprofen and asprin can KILL your cat!!
  • Nov 22, 2005
    Our cat has been moved over seven times in the last two years. I find that where I am, she stays.
  • Nov 22, 2005
    My cat Abby and I moved from a huge home in the country to a moderate sized apartment in the city. She seems to be content with the living arrangement but because she no longer has stairs to climb, odd noises to discover or 3 floors to kitty-heaven to roam around, she finds herself bored. If you plan to move somewhere smaller with your cat(s) be sure you have plenty for them to do.
  • Nov 22, 2005
    Great, soft pet carriers for dogs and cats are made by Sherpa and sold at some pet stores. They fit easily under airline seats and are lightweight and approved by most airlines. With cats, you can carry the bag using the shoulder strap.
  • Nov 22, 2005
    It is a medically known fact that a cat's life expectancy is REDUCED by more than 50% if it is allowed to roam outdoors. They can be subjected to fights, disease from animals they catch, feline AIDS from mating with strays, feline leukemia from coming in contact with other cats, and rabies. Other awful factors can also occur, such as getting hit by a car, getting caught and harassed by kids who are cruel, ingesting rodent and pesticide poisons, and starvation. Declawed cats (even if they're completely healed) or cats that have undergone any kind of recent surgery have little or no defense against other predators, cats, or dangers. Coyotes have been known to hunt and kill small dogs. Cats are no different a meal to them.
  • Nov 22, 2005
    Buy a large crate and put a litterbox in the rear (or an aluminum baking pan will do) so kitty doesn't have any accidents in the car. Use a harness on her; you can attach a lead to it easier and she won't slip out of it.
  • Nov 22, 2005
    Get a small face cloth and wipe it gently on the scent glands on the face of your cat (this may take some work because they don't like it much). Before you bring your cat into the new house, wipe the cloth coated with your cat's scent markings on corners in rooms where your cat may naturally mark. Because your furniture is already previously marked by your cat, it may help the adjustment if they feel like they're "king or queen of the castle" before they walk in the door. Also - NEVER tranquilize or medicate your cat with ANY human medications! Even Ibuprofen and asprin can KILL your cat!!
  • Nov 22, 2005
    Our cat has been moved over seven times in the last two years. I find that where I am, she stays.
  • Nov 22, 2005
    Okay, this is going to sound a bit nasty, but it really helps! It will help to adjust a cat to a new home and a new litter-box location. Before your move, save a plastic bag full of some used kitty litter (it doesn't have to have feces) and bring that with you when you arrange the new litter box location. Mix it in with the new litter and acquaint your cat with the litter box as soon as she feels a bit more settled. The scent of her own urine in the litterbox will help her know that it is hers and may keep her from marking in your new house! Also, it's never a good idea to bring an unneutered male adult into a new home. Males LOVE to mark. It cuts the spraying down a bit more if they're neutered.
  • Nov 22, 2005
    Remember that if you are moving or going on vacation, the water supply will be different at your destination and can make a cat sick. Take lots of bottled water or water from your home with you for the cat to drink, and gradually phase in the new water.
  • Nov 22, 2005
    After moving your cat into a new house, put butter on her paws (the pads of her feet). She'll lick off the butter (along with the scent of the old house) and pick up the scent of the new house. This way, when you let her out, she'll come back to her new home instead of trying to go back to the old one.

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