Comments on: How to Remove Cat Urine From Carpet

on 8/8/2006 The only thing that will really get cat urine truly out, is to get the affected carpet out. You can try all these "helpful hints" and I appreciate those who try, but seriously, the chemistry of the cat's urine is too much for any cleaner or enzyme. Of course the urine goes right into the pad, immediately, you can't get that out--ever. If you soak with cleaners/enzyme solutions, it also is going through all layers, and into sub flooring or the concrete, which usually just makes it swell and leech farther from the original affected area. In my case it was the concrete. We cut out the affected carpet and pad today, and scrubbed the concrete with bleach water--twice, letting dry thoroughly each time. That's it--urine gone (meaning urine soaked carpet), smell gone.
I'm ordering Pergo Laminate this week.

on 8/8/2006 If you go to just about any vitamin aisle, you can find papaya enzymes for about $5.00. They are supposed to help with digestion by breaking down proteins. Take 3 to 5 of the tablets and dissolve them in about a cup of water and then add that to about a gallon of water. Sprinkle the solution liberally over the stinky area. Leave it on the carpet for about 20 minutes. Then suck it all up using an extraction machine. Let dry. Voil - smell gone! I swear by this. Try it.

on 8/8/2006 This is the only product I will ever use! It really works! I've tried other pet odor removers over the past 20 years, and this is the first product I've found that does the job! It's called Zero Odor.

on 8/8/2006 Tired of carpet sprays, cleaning contractors and the expense of replacing our carpeting, we have done the following to allow our cat(s) to remain. We purchased four 2' x 3' cheap throw rugs and one cheap plastic shower curtain. We cut the plastic shower curtain (8 pieces) to the size of the throw rugs and placed the throw rugs (with the plastic beneath) at the spot our cat leaves a surprise. If the cat has an accident, we throw the rug and the plastic curtain in the washer and set down a clean unit. It sure saves the carpet! And the smell is gone, too.

on 8/8/2006 Do not step on paper towels soaked in cat pee. The odor will remain on your shoes for several steps, spreading wider the area cats will re-soak.

on 7/23/2006 I made the mistake of washing an entire load of clothes, thinking it would remove the smell. After several searches, and then just kinda piecing ideas together, I came up with how to really get the urine odor out of laundry. You really have to follow these directions, or it won't remove the odor.

First pour in about 2 cups of white vinegar, add your detergent and clothes. I highly recommend liquid fabric softener or your clothes will have that vinegar smell. Most importantly, use cold water to wash the load. The heat is what sets the smell.

After the cycle is complete, and before they go into the dryer - smell the clothes! If there is any hint of urine odor, run it through another cycle following the same instructions.

on 7/22/2006 Buy spot remover from Stanley Steemer, it works the best. I think it is $10 or $15 a bottle, but well worth the money. They also have a product called Odor Out that helps a great deal, but it will not remove the smell of weeks and weeks of cat urine.

on 7/20/2006 All I can say is: Rug Dr. Pet Stain Remover!
It is specially formulated to neutralize cat and dog urine. This stuff works! You just buy the bottle at the Rug Dr. station of your local store, and then put it on the stain full strength. You really don't even have to rent the machine.

My cat decided to start peeing in an unused upstairs loft in our apartment and we did not notice until we had a heat wave. He has been doing for awhile. Cat urine at 100+ is not something to be desired. Went to Target and bought that $20 enzyme stuff; did not work (black light is fun though)! Used the whole bottle on one spot. Rug Dr. was $5.95 for a big bottle and it took almost none to do the job! Highly recommended.

on 7/18/2006 Our neutered male cat is a wonderful hunter and very territorial. He sprays the perimeters of all our carpeted rooms whenever he feels the need. We were cleaning these spots with little success until we bought an enzyme product called 1-2-3-OdorFree. We use a black light to identify the urine stains, then treat them with the product. A fat syringe was included to get the product right down into the pad and onto the concrete. The urine is broken down so the smell disappears. Simple and it works.

on 6/30/2006 Summer has hit, so has the humidity, and so did the smell of cat pee. I did not know how long it had been going on, but by the smell of ammonia I knew it was for a while. I followed the idea from a website that said "The solution to pollution is water dilution."
Please don't do this! You will turn an isolated area into a huge area and spend more time and money fixing it. I then read someplace else, "Never use hot water because it activates the urine crystals that makes the smell." So if you haven't caught the urine right away, and it has had time to set in, I think the cheapest way to go is to take up the carpet where the problem is, smell the padding to make sure you are cutting out the entire space that smells of urine, and replace the padding. I got my new padding from Lowe's for like $20. Then get Kilz floor sealer and paint the sub floor. Let it dry, clean the pulled up carpet with Urine-Off, and then lay the new padding and the carpet once dry.

I know it sounds like a lot, but it's really not, and it's cheaper than buying all types of solutions and having the smell come back (and it does come back stronger). Totally eliminate it for less time and money. Urine-Off actually tells you where you can buy it in your area. Remember, the key to not having to do this again by removing the source!

on 6/30/2006 That is not the way to keep a kitty (or dog) from peeing again in that spot. It's not only ineffective, it borders on cruelty! Ask any veterinarian. There are many other ways to deal with the problem. I've tried many of them, and using some of the products already mentioned have worked for me. Before taking any drastic steps, investigate why the kitty might be using the floor or carpet as a litter box. Has there been stress in the household? Animals feel stress, too. Is there a new pet or family member? Pets don't have the capability to understand how they should react, so sometimes they react in ways we don't like. But they're not doing things from spite or anger as some people think. As far as we know, animals don't have logical thinking abilities. They react, they don't plot against us. As someone else said, a trip to the veterinarian might be warranted to see if there's a health problem that causes the cat to avoid the litter box. Above everything, be kind and understanding. I know it's frustrating. I seem to attract all kinds of problem kitties. But, I love them and work with them. All animals respond best to unconditional love and patience - just as humans do.

on 4/3/2006 I'm not sure what to use to get out the smell, but I can tell you what does not work. I tried Urine-Gone from As Seen on TV and it did not help whatsoever. I called to get my 100% money back guarantee, which is on the bottle itself, and the website I bought it on, Dutchguard, would not honor the guarantee. It was a waste of $29.99.

on 3/29/2006 We took in a stray, male cat that we found in our garage. He had not been altered and was very stressed. He sprayed in several different places throughout the house in just the first night. Not a pleasant smell to awaken to! The first thing we did was make an appointment at the local SPCA to have him neutered. I cleaned each spot with a regular pet odor remover purchased at Petsmart and sprayed a lot of Lysol Disinfectant directly on each spot. The smell was gone by the next day. After the cat was altered, he didn't spray again.

on 3/29/2006 Damped the area with a misting spray bottle, then liberally distribute baking soda over the area. Now soak the baking soda with water using the spray bottle. Allow to dry.
As the baking soda dries, it will wick the urine out of the carpet, along with other goop in the fibers. When it is completely dry, scrape it off of the carpet and repeat the above steps. When the baking soda dries to white instead of yellow, you are done.
I have used this whenever my cat has wet outside her litter box and it doesn't even leave the smell behind.

on 3/28/2006 Important! In order to remove the uric crystals left behind from urine, you must use a quality enzyme/bacteria based product! Before you apply the enzyme product you should rinse out any other cleaners or soaps you have been using with clean water so the enzymes can work to their maximum ability. It is important to reach all the uric acid crystals! Be sure to saturate the entire affected area in order to get all the way down to the subfloor. If the odors and stains are old, you may want to cover the treated area with plastic wrap in order to allow the product to remain wet for a longer period or retreat the area a second time. It is not necessary to spend a lot of money on enzyme cleaners but stay away from the $5.00-$10.00 products. They don't work! Also, do not be fooled by slick TV ads that make you believe that "one 16 ounce to 24 ounce. spray will clean your whole house". One product we have used with great success is called OdorZyme. It is available in 22 ounce. , 1/2 gallon and gallon sizes and cost less than most other products advertised.