Comments on How to Increase Gas Mileage

I have been told by countless mechanics and tire experts that running your tires 2-3 lbs above what is recommended for your car (on that little placard inside your door) helps to reduce heat and improve handling, The inflation values that car manufacturers post is way too conservative. The fastest way to get LESS gas mileage and increase your chances for a tire failure is to underinflate your tires.

I have found that by moving the front luggage carrier rack to the full back position, right against the back carrier rack, that my gas mileage has increased. This and using cruise control to keep my speed in and about or just slightly over 60 mph. I have been able to increase my gas mileage appreciably.

Ethos FR is a great product to increase gas mileage. 1 ounce per quart of oil in the crank case. 1 ounce per 10 gallons of gas. 2.5 ounces in the transmission. 1 ounce in power steering. Gives you good increase in gas mileage.

Be active in community activities that address growth. New shopping centers and housing developments result in traffic problems. Stop and go traffic, long traffic lights and congested traffic problems reduce fuel economy.

I've been drafting for over a year now, in more than two vehicles, and have an aftermarket MPG computer on my 96 Chevy V8 truck. I've verified that the MPG increases when following any size car, both tiny and huge. Works best with the 18 wheelers, of course. My mpg goes from a normal undrafted 16-18 mpg @ 70 mph to over 23+ @ 70 mph when behind any vehicle. My previous 96 Chevy truck that had a 4.3L V6 went from a MAX of 23 mpg @ 70 MPH to 30+ mpg @ 70 mph when drafting. P.S. - The same V6 truck got 55 mpg at 70 mph w/ the rear tires jacked up in the air sitting still, according to the MPG computer. So road and air friction reduce my theoretical best of 55 mpg down to 23 mpg. FYI - The V8 truck gets 22.5 mpg at a steady 50 mph on a flat road. I also fold both outside rear view mirrors back, have removed my windshield wipers (only do these things if it's legal in your state). and drive with the tailgate down when possible to reduce wind drag. Tire's recommended pressure is 65 PSI. Different types of tires carry different recommended pressures. If the theory about increased tire pressure reducing road friction is true, then it stands to reason that the type of tires which have a higher recommended pressure should, in theory, reduce road drag, thus increasing MPG. 18 wheeler tires use up to 100 PSI, but they're designed for it! They should know better than anyone how to increase their MPG! They're on the road almost all day and all night 24/7!! Also, on another Chevy V8 truck, I have a tornado (homemade out of roof flashing) and an engine ionizer which supposedly breaks down the unburned fuel in your cylinders using the EMF from the spark of the igniting cylinders. Seems to work well, will have specific scientific quantitative measured data to back this claim up soon.

If you drive more in the city, and don't often need large amounts of gas, then never fill the tank more than one-fourth. This will cut down on the weight of your vehicle and extra gas will not be pushed into the engine, thus saving gas. If you drive the highway more, utilize acceleration due to gravity on hills and avoid cruise control as it wastes gas trying to maintain a high speed at times. It is not needed.

Don't expect your '77 full sized pickup to get super gas mileage. It wasn't designed to. Granted, you can help it maximize its performance, but a vehicle designed by the manufacturer to get 14 mpg, isn't going to see huge leaps in economy. Be fair to yourself and the vehicle. Do the math on what kind of economy you need before you buy a car. Yes, you can spend countless hours and money to get another 2% economy. But, If you drive a lot, then pass on the 14 mpg vehicle. It's not for you. If you can go from a designed 21 to 38 mpg without spending ridiculous money, you should have a late night infomercial.

I have found that by moving the front luggage carrier rack to the full back position, right against the back carrier rack, that my gas mileage has increased. This and using cruise control to keep my speed in and about or just slightly over 60 mph. I have been able to increase my gas mileage appreciably.

I have been told by countless mechanics and tire experts that running your tires 2-3 lbs above what is recommended for your car (on that little placard inside your door) helps to reduce heat and improve handling, The inflation values that car manufacturers post is way too conservative. The fastest way to get LESS gas mileage and increase your chances for a tire failure is to underinflate your tires.

There are a number of myths being propagated here that need to be dispelled: Myth: Driving on a near empty tank harms the car. Truth: As long as there is enough fuel in the tank to be picked up by the pump, you're fine. If you're getting trash or water in your tank, you're buying from the wrong station. Quality gas stations monitor water levels in the tanks and maintain the filters installed at each of the pumps. This will keep any trash or water out of your tank. In addition, your fuel tank ventilation is a closed system. The vapors are sucked directly into the engine while the car is running. When it's not, it's closed to outside air, except when you're filling the tank. In that case, you're displacing all the air in the tank with gas, so very little outside air will ever make it into the tank. Don't worry about driving on a low tank. Just fill up at a level you're comfortable with. Myth: Turn off electric accessories to save fuel. Truth: Electric accessories will consume very little additional fuel. A 120 amp alternator (typical for many cars these days) can generate 1,440 watts at full load. This is 1.89 horsepower, which is about half of what it takes to run the AC. By keeping electric accessories off, you might save gas, but it won't be measurable. In addition, if you're not using things like headlights and defrosters when necessary, you're creating a safety hazard. If you get into a crash, the effects on the environment will be much worse than the 0.001 mpg you gained. Myth: Bigger wheels save gas. Truth: Bigger wheels are inevitably heavier (unless they're made of some advanced material, which would make them very expensive). They won't save gas, they'll only add to the weight of the wheel that the engine has to turn, requiring more power and therefore more fuel for acceleration and maintaining speed. Myth: Buy gas when it's cool outside. Truth: It's been pointed out already that gas is stored underground at a depth where the temperature is more-or-less constant. There won't be fluctuations on a daily basis. There may be some on a seasonal basis, but that won't help you. Regardless, as soon as you pump it into your tank, it'll start adjusting to the outside temperature and you won't see any difference in MPG. Finally, the hard truth of the matter is that the absolute number 1 determining factor in MPG is vehicle choice. The second is driving style. If you want good MPG, buy an efficient vehicle and drive smartly. Everything else is a drop in the bucket.

If you want to really save big money, just buy a diesel. Newer Volkswagen TDIs get an estimated 35 MPG in the city and 40+ MPG on the highway. Some of the older ones do even better than that. You'll never have to change a spark plug again either. Plus, the engine will last longer. Volkswagen and Mercedes diesels have had over two million miles put on them and they're probably working on three million. A diesel might be a little more expensive to buy, but you'll see the savings soon enough. Once you go diesel, you'll never go back.

It has been shown in wind/water tunnels and on the Discover Channel show MythBusters that driving with the tail gate down lowers your gas mileage. With your tail gate up, you create a cushion of air in the bed, this allows the air to flow over the tail gate and not create more resistance. With the tail gate down, you allow a vortex to build up behind the cab, this creates drag and actually lowers your gas mileage.

A previous tip was posted claiming that driving with a low fuel level in the tank will not harm your car. This is not true. I have a 2000 Pontiac Grand Am that went through three fuel pumps in a one year period, before the mechanic at the Pontiac garage told me to never let the fuel level drop below 1/4 tank. The fuel pump on this car was cooled by the fuel around it and running it next to "E" causes it to work at a much higher operating temperature, thus shortening the life of the pump. We now keep at least 1/4 tank of gas at all times and have had no trouble in three years.

Some people say this doesn't work, but the numbers don't lie. When I divide actual gallons I put in my tank by miles driven, I consistently get 3-4 mpg better when I fill up around half a tank rather than waiting till empty.

Some people say this doesn't work, but the numbers don't lie. When I divide actual gallons I put in my tank by miles driven, I consistently get 3-4 mpg better when I fill up around half a tank rather than waiting till empty.

It has been shown in wind/water tunnels and on the Discover Channel show MythBusters that driving with the tail gate down lowers your gas mileage. With your tail gate up, you create a cushion of air in the bed, this allows the air to flow over the tail gate and not create more resistance. With the tail gate down, you allow a vortex to build up behind the cab, this creates drag and actually lowers your gas mileage.

The vast majority of gasoline is consumed in daily commutes to and from work, school, shopping, etc. These miles are on urban and suburban roads with lights, stop signs, cross traffic and the like. It is in these driving situations where the greatest amount of gas is wasted. Notice I didn't say consumed but wasted. In several areas of my town, you can be waiting for one traffic light and actually see the next signal. What possible good does it do to speed away from the light only to be stopped at the next? I have seen people actually accelerating toward a light after it turned red. When I take my foot off the gas due to a red light up ahead, most cars zoom around me. Why? Why aren't they looking ahead? Why are they following each other so close to block out their view of what traffic is doing ahead? Most people would characterize me as a slow poke as I build speed very slowly. This is where I am passed regularly. None of those drivers notice however, that I often pass them. Yes, I might go slightly more than the speed limit once I get to speed, but keeping my eyes on the road ahead allows me adjust my speed accordingly. Much of the same idea can be applied to highway driving. What possible good does it do to catch up to a truck which is gradually overtaking another truck? Wouldn't it be better to see that truck and anticipate his actions. From a vantage point of up to 1/2 mile on a highway, it is easy to adjust your speed to pass both trucks after one has passed the other. I drive a car with estimated mpg of 18 local, 26 highway, yet in my local drive and local sales trips in urban/suburban areas, I average 24 MPG. I believe most people who think they are good drivers could realize at least a 10% improvement. Think of it. That's like lowering the price of gas from $3.00 to $2.70. If the greater part of the country's drivers decreased consumption, what affect would it have on the price of gas? What affect would it have on the economy?

A previous tip was posted claiming that driving with a low fuel level in the tank will not harm your car. This is not true. I have a 2000 Pontiac Grand Am that went through three fuel pumps in a one year period, before the mechanic at the Pontiac garage told me to never let the fuel level drop below 1/4 tank. The fuel pump on this car was cooled by the fuel around it and running it next to "E" causes it to work at a much higher operating temperature, thus shortening the life of the pump. We now keep at least 1/4 tank of gas at all times and have had no trouble in three years.

Basically, the vehicle (when properly maintained and tuned) isn't the main variable with maximizing fuel mileage. The largest area needing improvement I see everyday is individuals driving habits. Drive gently (fuel, engine, tires, clutch, brakes, transmission, bushings, etc.), everything will last longer including money remaining in your hip pocket. Life in the fast lane is for the birds, (slow down, enjoy the ride).

Basically, the vehicle (when properly maintained and tuned) isn't the main variable with maximizing fuel mileage. The largest area needing improvement I see everyday is individuals driving habits. Drive gently (fuel, engine, tires, clutch, brakes, transmission, bushings, etc.), everything will last longer including money remaining in your hip pocket. Life in the fast lane is for the birds, (slow down, enjoy the ride).

Buy a motorcycle. My 250 gets around 75 miles to the gallon, a larger 600 will only get about 50 if you drive too fast.

The tips suggesting the use of cruise control are not necessarily correct. I used to drive as part of my job and the gas money came out of my pocket, so finding things that really worked was in my best interest. The things that worked best (most effective first): - Drive slower; reducing your cruising speed by just 5mph can have a profound impact on your mpg - Do not use the cruise control on anything other than flat roads; obviously, this takes more effort, but it works. Control the throttle to get a little more speed on a downhill and don't try to maintain 100% desired speed on the uphill. Use the downhills to your advantage (don't just coast down like some say, unless you're on a downhill route). - Keep your tires properly inflated - E10 gas (even at a higher octane) can actually reduce gas mileage; avoid it if mpg is important. - Keep the air filter clean and use synthetic oils (only slightly effective in increasing mpg, but it does seem to help slightly).

The tips suggesting the use of cruise control are not necessarily correct. I used to drive as part of my job and the gas money came out of my pocket, so finding things that really worked was in my best interest. The things that worked best (most effective first): - Drive slower; reducing your cruising speed by just 5mph can have a profound impact on your mpg - Do not use the cruise control on anything other than flat roads; obviously, this takes more effort, but it works. Control the throttle to get a little more speed on a downhill and don't try to maintain 100% desired speed on the uphill. Use the downhills to your advantage (don't just coast down like some say, unless you're on a downhill route). - Keep your tires properly inflated - E10 gas (even at a higher octane) can actually reduce gas mileage; avoid it if mpg is important. - Keep the air filter clean and use synthetic oils (only slightly effective in increasing mpg, but it does seem to help slightly).

Running a vehicle at less than half of a tank, while reducing weight, can cause serious problems with a vehicle's fuel system. The impurities in gasoline settle in the tank of all cars. Running your car at lower fuel levels just clogs the filter faster and gums up the injectors. In addition it causes wear on the fuel pump. So it is a bad practice to get into.