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Comments on: How to Increase Gas Mileage

108 Comments From eHow Members

Cafa said

on 8/10/2007 Lower the weight of the car, the bigger the MPG. Remove the trash from your trunk, and don't buy a 3-ton truck if you'll be alone in it.

Juli said

on 6/12/2007 As far as not running the air conditioning, the exception is highway travel when running the AC is actually MORE efficient because there is less aerodynamic drag with the windows closed, and less drag = less fuel consumption.

on 6/1/2007 This is one of the few websites where someone said that cruise control might not help gas mileage. We live in a very hilly area, so cruise control is a killer for gas mileage because every time you get a hill it automatically slams on the accelerator, which is one of the worst things you can do. My wife will not believe me on this, because almost every other website makes a blanket conclusion that "cruise control"="better gas mileage". Cruise control is only good for flat ground, as far as gas mileage is concerned, and if you are a careful driver, you can always beat the effeciency of the cruise control mechanism. I would really like to know if anybody has done a cruise control test under real conditions to see if it helps gas mileage.

on 3/2/2007 A question first. I have heard somewhere that you consume less fuel if you accelerate to cruising speed faster rather than slower (unless you're gonna be decelerating again soon, in which case you don't need to reach cruising speed). Can anyone confirm this?
Re drafting: What follow distance actually provides the draft effect? Having recently wrecked my car, I'd rather spend a little more on gas and stick to the 3 second rule. Also, following an 18 wheeler closely is never a good idea - they have a long blind spot behind. And never follow any open bed big truck - you get more paint chips on the bonnet and your windshield gets sand blasted quicker even if you don't get hit by something from a truck that is "not responsible for objects coming from the roadway."

on 2/18/2007 Please join Me in Saving the Enviroment <>< Watch the Problems, Sollutions and H2O Videos <>< http://www.preignitioncc.com/better/ Get 200% to 400% Increase in Fuel Mileage and Help Slow Global Warming <>< Win, Win Win for Everyone <><

Dennis B./ Drake President/CEO www.BeterandBetterTechnologies.com A Clean Green Nevada Corporation And this July 10th 2007 is Energy Independence Day in North America <><


Las Vegas Viet-Nam Marine Vet " Better and Better Every Day in Every Way is the Only Way to Be ! Don't you Agree ? "
702-944-0376

on 2/18/2007 Please join Me in Saving the Enviroment <>< Watch the Problems, Sollutions and H2O Videos <>< http://www.preignitioncc.com/better/ Get 200% to 400% Increase in Fuel Mileage and Help Slow Global Warming <>< Win, Win Win for Everyone <><

Dennis B./ Drake President/CEO www.BeterandBetterTechnologies.com A Clean Green Nevada Corporation And this July 10th 2007 is Energy Independence Day in North America <><


Las Vegas Viet-Nam Marine Vet " Better and Better Every Day in Every Way is the Only Way to Be ! Don't you Agree ? "
702-944-0376

on 2/6/2007 Would like to know if there have been any independent studies on motor/gear lubricants and which ones are best to maximize fuel efficiency. Synthetics, like Mobil 1, used to claim this. Also STP used to have a popular product several years back. Anyone know more?
I'm running 57 PSI in the front tires of my Chev. 3/4 ton, instead of the 50 PSI recommended and I have seen an improvement although I don't know how much yet. The ride is slightly stiffer, but not much. It would seem reasonable to assume that higher tire pressure, to reduce friction, and a more sensitive shock absorber to negate initial shock to the vehicle's chassis may be an area to explore for maxing a vehicle's MPG.

E G said

on 12/10/2006 Myths -
1. Avoid unnecessary braking: true

2. Drive slow: True, b/c of air drag above 55mph and added braking at all speeds. But balance time lost vs. gas saved.

3. Accelerate slowly: Myth! In my engineering classes we learn higher throttle means higher efficiency. But keep your top speed down (see #2).

4. Cat+muffler upgrades: True on older cars with inefficient exhausts. Headers & intakes, however, make no noticeable difference.

5. Pickup w/ tail down: myth (thanks Mythbusters)

6. Synthetic oils: Only Royal Purple has been independantly shown to lower friction and increase mpg & HP by 2%-5%, depending on engine.

7. Tire pressure, air filters, timing, other maintenance, etc.: true. All of these consume a little extra fuel, though not much unless your car is broken.

8. Cold gas is denser: Myth! Only slightly true. Density of liquids changes very little with temperature.

Anonymous said

on 8/8/2006 I've been drafting for over a year now, in more than two vehicles, and have an aftermarket MPG computer on my 96 Chevy V8 truck. I've verified that the MPG increases when following any size car, both tiny and huge. Works best with the 18 wheelers, of course. My mpg goes from a normal undrafted 16-18 mpg @ 70 mph to over 23+ @ 70 mph when behind any vehicle. My previous 96 Chevy truck that had a 4.3L V6 went from a MAX of 23 mpg @ 70 MPH to 30+ mpg @ 70 mph when drafting.
P.S. - The same V6 truck got 55 mpg at 70 mph w/ the rear tires jacked up in the air sitting still, according to the MPG computer. So road and air friction reduce my theoretical best of 55 mpg down to 23 mpg.
FYI - The V8 truck gets 22.5 mpg at a steady 50 mph on a flat road.

I also fold both outside rear view mirrors back, have removed my windshield wipers (only do these things if it's legal in your state). and drive with the tailgate down when possible to reduce wind drag.

Tire's recommended pressure is 65 PSI. Different types of tires carry different recommended pressures. If the theory about increased tire pressure reducing road friction is true, then it stands to reason that the type of tires which have a higher recommended pressure should, in theory, reduce road drag, thus increasing MPG.

18 wheeler tires use up to 100 PSI, but they're designed for it! They should know better than anyone how to increase their MPG! They're on the road almost all day and all night 24/7!!

Also, on another Chevy V8 truck, I have a tornado (homemade out of roof flashing) and an engine ionizer which supposedly breaks down the unburned fuel in your cylinders using the EMF from the spark of the igniting cylinders. Seems to work well, will have specific scientific quantitative measured data to back this claim up soon.

Anonymous said

on 8/8/2006 I have found that by moving the front luggage carrier rack to the full back position, right against the back carrier rack, that my gas mileage has
increased. This and using cruise control to keep my speed in and about or just slightly over 60 mph. I have been able to increase my gas mileage
appreciably.

Anonymous said

on 8/8/2006 If you drive more in the city, and don't often need large amounts of gas, then never fill the tank more than one-fourth. This will cut down on the weight of your vehicle and extra gas will not be pushed into the engine, thus saving gas.

If you drive the highway more, utilize acceleration due to gravity on hills and avoid cruise control as it wastes gas trying to maintain a high speed at times. It is not needed.

Anonymous said

on 8/8/2006 Ethos FR is a great product to increase gas mileage.

1 ounce per quart of oil in the crank case.
1 ounce per 10 gallons of gas.
2.5 ounces in the transmission.
1 ounce in power steering.
Gives you good increase in gas mileage.

Anonymous said

on 5/22/2007 There are a number of myths being propagated here that need to be dispelled:

Myth: Driving on a near empty tank harms the car.
Truth: As long as there is enough fuel in the tank to be picked up by the pump, you're fine. If you're getting trash or water in your tank, you're buying from the wrong station. Quality gas stations monitor water levels in the tanks and maintain the filters installed at each of the pumps. This will keep any trash or water out of your tank. In addition, your fuel tank ventilation is a closed system. The vapors are sucked directly into the engine while the car is running. When it's not, it's closed to outside air, except when you're filling the tank. In that case, you're displacing all the air in the tank with gas, so very little outside air will ever make it into the tank. Don't worry about driving on a low tank. Just fill up at a level you're comfortable with.

Myth: Turn off electric accessories to save fuel.

Truth: Electric accessories will consume very little additional fuel. A 120 amp alternator (typical for many cars these days) can generate 1,440 watts at full load. This is 1.89 horsepower, which is about half of what it takes to run the AC. By keeping electric accessories off, you might save gas, but it won't be measurable. In addition, if you're not using things like headlights and defrosters when necessary, you're creating a safety hazard. If you get into a crash, the effects on the environment will be much worse than the 0.001 mpg you gained.

Myth: Bigger wheels save gas.

Truth: Bigger wheels are inevitably heavier (unless they're made of some advanced material, which would make them very expensive). They won't save gas, they'll only add to the weight of the wheel that the engine has to turn, requiring more power and therefore more fuel for acceleration and maintaining speed.

Myth: Buy gas when it's cool outside.

Truth: It's been pointed out already that gas is stored underground at a depth where the temperature is more-or-less constant. There won't be fluctuations on a daily basis. There may be some on a seasonal basis, but that won't help you. Regardless, as soon as you pump it into your tank, it'll start adjusting to the outside temperature and you won't see any difference in MPG.

Finally, the hard truth of the matter is that the absolute number 1 determining factor in MPG is vehicle choice. The second is driving style. If you want good MPG, buy an efficient vehicle and drive smartly. Everything else is a drop in the bucket.

Anonymous said

on 8/8/2006 Don't expect your '77 full sized pickup to get super gas mileage. It wasn't designed to. Granted, you can help it maximize its performance, but a vehicle designed by the manufacturer to get 14 mpg, isn't going to see huge leaps in economy. Be fair to yourself and the vehicle. Do the math on what kind of economy you need before you buy a car. Yes, you can spend countless hours and money to get another 2% economy. But, If you drive a lot, then pass on the 14 mpg vehicle. It's not for you.

If you can go from a designed 21 to 38 mpg without spending ridiculous money, you should have a late night infomercial.

Anonymous said

on 8/8/2006 Be active in community activities that address growth. New shopping centers and housing developments result in traffic problems. Stop and go traffic, long traffic lights and congested traffic problems reduce fuel economy.

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