Comments on How to Increase Gas Mileage

use a recover products ...

Using these tips I increased my commute mileage by 5 mpg thanks

I will let you know how it turns out

Great info I will start using this tommorow on my commute

Ride a bike for short trips!!

Ride a bike for short trips!

Ride a bike for short trips!!

Ride a bike for short trips!

For long trips I have one thing to say: CRUISE CONTROL. I frequently drive from Buffalo, NY to Ann Arbor, MI (through Canada), and before I used cruise control my car would use just about the whole tank. Now, my tank is half full by the time I get to Ann Arbor using cruise control :)

"Some people say this doesn't work, but the numbers don't lie. When I divide actual gallons I put in my tank by miles driven, I consistently get 3-4 mpg better when I fill up around half a tank rather than waiting till empty." I have also found this to be true. I've asked a few people as to why and got 2 good answers. 1) With a full tank, the weight of the gas pushing down helps to feed the fuel through the gas lines and thus, reduces the effort the fuel pump needs to exert. Sort of like a siphon...the highr the fuel level the less work needed to pump it to the engine. 2) evaporation. If the fuel is higher in the tank, near the narrow portion of the tank, there is less gas surface exposed to air and thus less gas is evaporated and vented as vapor. I did this esperiment with 10 fillups. I kept it above 3/4 tank full and then did 10 fillups keeping it less than 1/4 tank. The 3/4 full

"Some people say this doesn't work, but the numbers don't lie. When I divide actual gallons I put in my tank by miles driven, I consistently get 3-4 mpg better when I fill up around half a tank rather than waiting till empty." I have also found this to be true. I've asked a few people as to why and got 2 good answers. 1) With a full tank, the weight of the gas pushing down helps to feed the fuel through the gas lines and thus, reduces the effort the fuel pump needs to exert. Sort of like a siphon...the highr the fuel level the less work needed to pump it to the engine. 2) evaporation. If the fuel is higher in the tank, near the narrow portion of the tank, there is less gas surface exposed to air and thus less gas is evaporated and vented as vapor. I did this esperiment with 10 fillups. I kept it above 3/4 tank full and then did 10 fillups keeping it less than 1/4 tank. The 3/4 full

(for the person who says driving with the tailgate down will save you money. That is not true. I have seen a couple of reports on the subject. Ford released a report and Mythbusters tested it a few times in each diffrent way. Tailgate up supprisingly gives you better MPG than tailgate down because with tailgate down you distroy the airflow behind the truck or something like that. Anyway they knew what they were doing when the designed them.

(for the person who says driving with the tailgate down will save you money. That is not true. I have seen a couple of reports on the subject. Ford released a report and Mythbusters tested it a few times in each diffrent way. Tailgate up supprisingly gives you better MPG than tailgate down because with tailgate down you distroy the airflow behind the truck or something like that. Anyway they knew what they were doing when the designed them.

nice tips dude, not to be mean but i love how americans created cars to commute in, then created the suburbs so they had somewhere to commute everyday and only now that the price of fuel has gone up every is in eco/wallet friendly mode. god bless your country. walking usually helps keep the fuel bill down too

Lower the weight of the car, the bigger the MPG. Remove the trash from your trunk, and don't buy a 3-ton truck if you'll be alone in it.

As far as not running the air conditioning, the exception is highway travel when running the AC is actually MORE efficient because there is less aerodynamic drag with the windows closed, and less drag = less fuel consumption.

As far as not running the air conditioning, the exception is highway travel when running the AC is actually MORE efficient because there is less aerodynamic drag with the windows closed, and less drag = less fuel consumption.

This is one of the few websites where someone said that cruise control might not help gas mileage. We live in a very hilly area, so cruise control is a killer for gas mileage because every time you get a hill it automatically slams on the accelerator, which is one of the worst things you can do. My wife will not believe me on this, because almost every other website makes a blanket conclusion that "cruise control"="better gas mileage". Cruise control is only good for flat ground, as far as gas mileage is concerned, and if you are a careful driver, you can always beat the effeciency of the cruise control mechanism. I would really like to know if anybody has done a cruise control test under real conditions to see if it helps gas mileage.

This is one of the few websites where someone said that cruise control might not help gas mileage. We live in a very hilly area, so cruise control is a killer for gas mileage because every time you get a hill it automatically slams on the accelerator, which is one of the worst things you can do. My wife will not believe me on this, because almost every other website makes a blanket conclusion that "cruise control"="better gas mileage". Cruise control is only good for flat ground, as far as gas mileage is concerned, and if you are a careful driver, you can always beat the effeciency of the cruise control mechanism. I would really like to know if anybody has done a cruise control test under real conditions to see if it helps gas mileage.

A question first. I have heard somewhere that you consume less fuel if you accelerate to cruising speed faster rather than slower (unless you're gonna be decelerating again soon, in which case you don't need to reach cruising speed). Can anyone confirm this? Re drafting: What follow distance actually provides the draft effect? Having recently wrecked my car, I'd rather spend a little more on gas and stick to the 3 second rule. Also, following an 18 wheeler closely is never a good idea - they have a long blind spot behind. And never follow any open bed big truck - you get more paint chips on the bonnet and your windshield gets sand blasted quicker even if you don't get hit by something from a truck that is "not responsible for objects coming from the roadway."

A question first. I have heard somewhere that you consume less fuel if you accelerate to cruising speed faster rather than slower (unless you're gonna be decelerating again soon, in which case you don't need to reach cruising speed). Can anyone confirm this? Re drafting: What follow distance actually provides the draft effect? Having recently wrecked my car, I'd rather spend a little more on gas and stick to the 3 second rule. Also, following an 18 wheeler closely is never a good idea - they have a long blind spot behind. And never follow any open bed big truck - you get more paint chips on the bonnet and your windshield gets sand blasted quicker even if you don't get hit by something from a truck that is "not responsible for objects coming from the roadway."

Would like to know if there have been any independent studies on motor/gear lubricants and which ones are best to maximize fuel efficiency. Synthetics, like Mobil 1, used to claim this. Also STP used to have a popular product several years back. Anyone know more? I'm running 57 PSI in the front tires of my Chev. 3/4 ton, instead of the 50 PSI recommended and I have seen an improvement although I don't know how much yet. The ride is slightly stiffer, but not much. It would seem reasonable to assume that higher tire pressure, to reduce friction, and a more sensitive shock absorber to negate initial shock to the vehicle's chassis may be an area to explore for maxing a vehicle's MPG.

Myths - 1. Avoid unnecessary braking: true 2. Drive slow: True, b/c of air drag above 55mph and added braking at all speeds. But balance time lost vs. gas saved. 3. Accelerate slowly: Myth! In my engineering classes we learn higher throttle means higher efficiency. But keep your top speed down (see #2). 4. Cat+muffler upgrades: True on older cars with inefficient exhausts. Headers & intakes, however, make no noticeable difference. 5. Pickup w/ tail down: myth (thanks Mythbusters) 6. Synthetic oils: Only Royal Purple has been independantly shown to lower friction and increase mpg & HP by 2%-5%, depending on engine. 7. Tire pressure, air filters, timing, other maintenance, etc.: true. All of these consume a little extra fuel, though not much unless your car is broken. 8. Cold gas is denser: Myth! Only slightly true. Density of liquids changes very little with temperature.