on 8/6/2008
Chazz 4 and 5 are not sequecial steps they are 2 different options. You cannot install both ways. The latter posses less risk to premature failure of the sensor due to feedback caused by adding resistance to the signal wire. The latter modifies reference voltage so there is no feedback to the sensor. The ECU can handle the feedback easily, and is designed to do so on that particular circuit.
on 8/6/2008
Gorman, Their are third party experiments on this technology by the ASE that are over 20 years old, and suggest that the technology is valid, but they were under a lot of pressure back then not to necessarily endorse it as such. People were still getting fitted for concrete shoes when they built water cars back then. I could spend a lot of money having the united laboratory list these devices with a 50%-50% chance of success, and spend hundreds of thousands doing so, or I can put them on peoples cars and save everyone money right now. They work really well when properly manufactured, and professionally installed. I have ASE master technicians who install them, and would bet their certification that it works.
on 8/5/2008
This is a very interesting topic. I have been reading several articles about it. The most recent I read was titled "HHO or HHype" found at http://economicefficiency.blogspot.com/2008/07/hho-or-hhype.html
I still would like to see a 3rd party lab provide some data.
on 6/26/2008
I have recently researched the MAF problem. This regulator will not work with a MAF. A MAP sensor uses electrical resistance to reference it's parmeters. A MAF uses signal frequency. This units simply changes resistance, and will not work on a MAF. There are devices that address this issue, and are built around a 555 timer circuit.
on 6/15/2008
There is a plan for an O2 controller. Go to hydrogengarage.com and look for the tech link for Patrick Kelly. Then find pdf.D17. Not many do it yourselfers have much luck with it as it is fairly complex. About 20 discrete components, and a LED bar graph display IC chip, plus enclosure, switches, and wires. It works great, when it works. Another alternative may be to put your VR unit on the reference voltage to the MAF sensor, it will usually be 5V. Dialing it down slightly, like .5V to 4.5Vref, would move the entire fuel map down a little, but as a whole, intact.
on 6/14/2008
Binder, I just read the posting from stevehaley about the MAF sensor. I also have a MAF in my 97 ford F150.I just finished building VR controler and want to install it.Will it work on the MAF sensor? If not is there a plan for an O2 sensor controler?
on 6/5/2008
The MAF sensor works by heating an element in the path of incoming air. The computer gets it's reading from how much power it takes to keep the wire a constant temperature. It should work as long as you didn't put it on the heater wire which you may have done. The check engine light won't go off until the sensor input is corrected, and then you disconnect to reset the fault codes. Owing to the voltages, and manner in which the sensor works, and the computer reads it, the simple VR (variable resistor) controller might not work. In that case you will have to use an O2 sensor controller.
binder said
on 8/16/2008 Please don't spam the comment box
upandrunninghho said
on 8/16/2008 maybe this can help
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ayspl6Tdzaw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EpqAysR-dRs
upandrunninghho said
on 8/16/2008 maybe this can help
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ayspl6Tdzaw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EpqAysR-dRs
upandrunninghho said
on 8/16/2008 maybe this can help
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ayspl6Tdzaw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EpqAysR-dRs
upandrunninghho said
on 8/16/2008 maybe this can help
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ayspl6Tdzaw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EpqAysR-dRs
upandrunninghho said
on 8/16/2008 maybe this can help
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ayspl6Tdzaw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EpqAysR-dRs
upandrunninghho said
on 8/16/2008 maybe this can help
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ayspl6Tdzaw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EpqAysR-dRs
binder said
on 8/6/2008 Chazz 4 and 5 are not sequecial steps they are 2 different options. You cannot install both ways. The latter posses less risk to premature failure of the sensor due to feedback caused by adding resistance to the signal wire. The latter modifies reference voltage so there is no feedback to the sensor. The ECU can handle the feedback easily, and is designed to do so on that particular circuit.
binder said
on 8/6/2008 Gorman, Their are third party experiments on this technology by the ASE that are over 20 years old, and suggest that the technology is valid, but they were under a lot of pressure back then not to necessarily endorse it as such. People were still getting fitted for concrete shoes when they built water cars back then. I could spend a lot of money having the united laboratory list these devices with a 50%-50% chance of success, and spend hundreds of thousands doing so, or I can put them on peoples cars and save everyone money right now. They work really well when properly manufactured, and professionally installed. I have ASE master technicians who install them, and would bet their certification that it works.
chazz said
on 8/5/2008 Step 4 and 5 contradict each other, is 5 or 4 we should be following?
gormanwvzb said
on 8/5/2008 This is a very interesting topic. I have been reading several articles about it. The most recent I read was titled "HHO or HHype" found at http://economicefficiency.blogspot.com/2008/07/hho-or-hhype.html
I still would like to see a 3rd party lab provide some data.
binder said
on 6/26/2008 I have recently researched the MAF problem. This regulator will not work with a MAF. A MAP sensor uses electrical resistance to reference it's parmeters. A MAF uses signal frequency. This units simply changes resistance, and will not work on a MAF. There are devices that address this issue, and are built around a 555 timer circuit.
binder said
on 6/15/2008 There is a plan for an O2 controller. Go to hydrogengarage.com and look for the tech link for Patrick Kelly. Then find pdf.D17. Not many do it yourselfers have much luck with it as it is fairly complex. About 20 discrete components, and a LED bar graph display IC chip, plus enclosure, switches, and wires. It works great, when it works. Another alternative may be to put your VR unit on the reference voltage to the MAF sensor, it will usually be 5V. Dialing it down slightly, like .5V to 4.5Vref, would move the entire fuel map down a little, but as a whole, intact.
Bear9762 said
on 6/14/2008 Binder, I just read the posting from stevehaley about the MAF sensor. I also have a MAF in my 97 ford F150.I just finished building VR controler and want to install it.Will it work on the MAF sensor? If not is there a plan for an O2 sensor controler?
binder said
on 6/5/2008 The MAF sensor works by heating an element in the path of incoming air. The computer gets it's reading from how much power it takes to keep the wire a constant temperature. It should work as long as you didn't put it on the heater wire which you may have done. The check engine light won't go off until the sensor input is corrected, and then you disconnect to reset the fault codes. Owing to the voltages, and manner in which the sensor works, and the computer reads it, the simple VR (variable resistor) controller might not work. In that case you will have to use an O2 sensor controller.