on 3/16/2009
Does the brand make a difference? I see a price range difference of about $100 and wonder if it really matters which brand alternator to use? Thanks
on 3/27/2007
couple more things... for step 3, there will either be a belt tension setup or your alternator itself will have the top bolt going through a curved metal slide tensioner. You will need to loosen this bolt to get the belt to come off. It's very important that when you put it back on, you get the belt tight, but not too tight. This will take some effort to do. The alternator will swing on the lower bolt (don't tighten it all the way until you do this) and slide in the curved metal piece. You will have to push the alternator until the belt seems at a good tension. Then hold it there while you ratchet the bolt tight. Get it really tight, but don't strip it. Then tighten the bottom bolt good. Once you are finished, fire up your car and make sure the belt isn't too tight. DON'T TOUCH IT WHILE IT'S RUNNING THOUGH!
For step 4, the ground cable is usually a screw and the hot wire clips in/out.
Whatever you do, don't accidentally cross your battery terminals with your wrench. That could result in a lot of problems.
Lastly, any good auto parts store WILL test your alternator for free... even if you're sure that the alternator is the problem, take it with you when you get the new one. They will take lot of money off the price of the new one for giving them the old core. (core charge) Also, just get a rebuilt one... they are just as good as the new ones and are cheaper.
kimlh said
on 3/16/2009 Does the brand make a difference? I see a price range difference of about $100 and wonder if it really matters which brand alternator to use? Thanks
gdiaz81 said
on 5/30/2008 thanks for the info bro
gdiaz81 said
on 5/30/2008 thanx for explaining thorough for us slow ones, or shall i say new ones to auto repair thanks, bro!
gdiaz81 said
on 5/30/2008 thanx for explaining thorough for us slow ones, or shall i say new ones to auto repair thanks, bro!
matt.reichert said
on 3/27/2007 couple more things... for step 3, there will either be a belt tension setup or your alternator itself will have the top bolt going through a curved metal slide tensioner. You will need to loosen this bolt to get the belt to come off. It's very important that when you put it back on, you get the belt tight, but not too tight. This will take some effort to do. The alternator will swing on the lower bolt (don't tighten it all the way until you do this) and slide in the curved metal piece. You will have to push the alternator until the belt seems at a good tension. Then hold it there while you ratchet the bolt tight. Get it really tight, but don't strip it. Then tighten the bottom bolt good. Once you are finished, fire up your car and make sure the belt isn't too tight. DON'T TOUCH IT WHILE IT'S RUNNING THOUGH!
For step 4, the ground cable is usually a screw and the hot wire clips in/out.
Whatever you do, don't accidentally cross your battery terminals with your wrench. That could result in a lot of problems.
Lastly, any good auto parts store WILL test your alternator for free... even if you're sure that the alternator is the problem, take it with you when you get the new one. They will take lot of money off the price of the new one for giving them the old core. (core charge) Also, just get a rebuilt one... they are just as good as the new ones and are cheaper.
lordofworld said
on 1/25/2007 the Don King look did happend to me
so please follow this directions