on 6/1/2007
You do get what you pay for: It should be noted that there is a significant different in drying times between professional "artist" oils and student grade paints.
Student grade paints have less actual pigment, and more inert/colorless extenders and oil (the "binder") added.
As such lower quality paints will take much longer to dry. But oil paints don't really "dry": oils dry through oxidation and not evaporation (as with watercolors or acrylics).
Paintings made with professional oil colors are more durable/lightfast and also, because of increased pigment content, they will often (though not always) sell at higher prices.
on 11/22/2005
You can use old cotton shirts as inexpensive, effective cleaning rags. Also, some prefer to use paper towels or a roll of toilet paper to clean up with. Be sure to experiment and find which option suits you best.
on 11/22/2005
You may find that the odor of turpentine is overwhelming when painting in a confining space. Fortunately, there is odorless turpentine. It's just as good - and safer to the senses. An inexpensive brush cleaner soap is recommended, too.
on 11/22/2005
When glazing (slowly building up layers of transparent color), you often have to purchase the more expensive colors. Cheaper colors lose their intensity when mixed down to a thin glaze and become "muddy."
on 11/22/2005
When using a direct painting method (not thinning the color down with linseed oil), you can often buy the cheaper earth colors. They look just as good as the expensive ones. Save your money to buy the better cadmiums for intense bursts of color.
on 11/22/2005
Artists throughout history have limited the number of colors they used. If you have any favorite artists whose work you admire, you can usually find some information on the colors they used in art books. You may find that a little can go a very long way.
Tosa85 said
on 6/1/2007 You do get what you pay for: It should be noted that there is a significant different in drying times between professional "artist" oils and student grade paints.
Student grade paints have less actual pigment, and more inert/colorless extenders and oil (the "binder") added.
As such lower quality paints will take much longer to dry. But oil paints don't really "dry": oils dry through oxidation and not evaporation (as with watercolors or acrylics).
Paintings made with professional oil colors are more durable/lightfast and also, because of increased pigment content, they will often (though not always) sell at higher prices.
Anonymous said
on 11/22/2005 You can use old cotton shirts as inexpensive, effective cleaning rags. Also, some prefer to use paper towels or a roll of toilet paper to clean up with. Be sure to experiment and find which option suits you best.
Anonymous said
on 11/22/2005 You may find that the odor of turpentine is overwhelming when painting in a confining space. Fortunately, there is odorless turpentine. It's just as good - and safer to the senses. An inexpensive brush cleaner soap is recommended, too.
Anonymous said
on 11/22/2005 When glazing (slowly building up layers of transparent color), you often have to purchase the more expensive colors. Cheaper colors lose their intensity when mixed down to a thin glaze and become "muddy."
Anonymous said
on 11/22/2005 When using a direct painting method (not thinning the color down with linseed oil), you can often buy the cheaper earth colors. They look just as good as the expensive ones. Save your money to buy the better cadmiums for intense bursts of color.
Anonymous said
on 11/22/2005 Artists throughout history have limited the number of colors they used. If you have any favorite artists whose work you admire, you can usually find some information on the colors they used in art books. You may find that a little can go a very long way.