Comments on: How to Buy a Turntable

on 12/27/2009 Had one, never used it, sold it, now regret it, lol.

on 12/27/2009 Had one, never used it, sold it, now regret it, lol.

on 12/3/2009 My first turntable was a second or third hand Pioneer belt drive and it was an SOB. Went through belts like crazy, had crap for torque (heavier slipmats would actually stop the motor) and it basically ruined the experience. Was about half the price ($50) of a similar direct drive, but belts weren't cheap either.

Replaced with a cheap plastic SONY just to hear my records again. Major hum issues but love for vinyl is back.

My next player will be a high torque direct drive.

One thing I'll add to the discussion -- your home theater receiver and its 11.1 channels of THX Dolby DTS Feelaround aren't likely to have a phono preamp circuit, or at least not a good one. Records were recorded with a certain equalization in mind, the so called RIAA pre-amp. I'm in love with the TEC preamps out of China...you can get a very nice MM/MC switchable preamp with level adjustment for around $60 s...

on 8/12/2008 How or where can I get a ground wire to the turntable to the Pioneer receiver so I can have some sound?

on 6/15/2008 A suspended turntable is not necessarily better than a non-suspended one. There are very good and very bad examples of both types. Eliminating the suspension means more money to put into the other components. It also means fewer factors which have to be correct in the design. Unless you're spending multiple thousands on the turntable, you're probably better off without suspension.

Try a high output moving coil cartridge. These will happily drive a moving magnet phono stage.

The synergy between the turntable, tonearm, and cartridge is important. Some combinations of very good components simply don't work, other combinations really sing. This is where your deal can really help.

The most important thing is to listen. No matter how good the reviews, no matter row high the ratings on internet forums, if it doesn't sound musical to you, don't buy it.

on 8/8/2006 Some people are dead set against idler wheel drive, but a high quality one with a heavy platter reduces the rumble. The ELAC Miracord and Dual turntables work this way and are excellent choices. Also, the heavy platter helps with a more consistent RPM.

on 8/8/2006 If you plan to do any turntablism, stay away from belt-drive. The bands will snap quickly, and it won't provide the torque you'll need.

on 11/22/2005 Direct drive turntables like the Technics 1200 Mk2 are preferred by most DJs because they regain normal speed much faster than belt drive decks. This is especially useful when scratching or beat mixing.

on 11/22/2005 First of all, you do want a turntable with a suspension. The best suspension designs float the platter/tonearm structure within a properly designed base. This helps to isolate the turntable from outside vibration including sound from the loudspeakers and footfalls.

A moving magnet cartridge is not the only choice. Non-moving magnet designs are equally viable and many audiophiles prefer the moving coil. Designs with both a fixed magnet and a fixed coil (Fluxbridge was one name for it) are fully equal to the moving magnet design.

The tone-arm should not be ignored. Ideally, this should be matched in moving mass to the particular cartridge. That bit of esoterica aside, look for an arm whose bearings (vertical and horizontal) are without play other than in the directions the arm is supposed to move. That is, the arm should be perfectly free to move across the record and up and down and in no other direction. Sloppy bearings will affect the sound in both subtle and not so subtle ways.

on 11/22/2005 If you purchase a used belt-driven turntable, replace the belt. Belts stretch and lose their flex over time, changing the speed of the turntable. They may be purchased on the Internet from several excellent dealers for about $15.

on 11/22/2005 Only buy a Technics 1200 turntable. New or used, it will outlast anything under the sun.