Comments on How to Lay a Concrete Sidewalk

One does not lay concrete, we pour it. The reason all sod and vegetation has to be removed is because it will rot and cause a gap between the ground and the underneath of the concrete. When it cracks (and it will crack), if the concrete is not reinforced this will cause separation of the concrete and unleveling of sections that may cause pedestrians to trip and fall, thus suing you. We never use sand or lose gravel as a base because they do not compact well. Best base for concrete is ¾” crushed limestone with screenings. Be sure to compact it well. One yard of concrete covers an area of 81 square feet at a four-inch depth. When ordering from a ready mix concrete company they will charge a cartage fee for orders under four yards, it is just not profitable to deliver small orders. One can rent the concrete tools necessary pretty much anywhere. The proper tools are of most importance in producing an excellent finish with concrete, and someone who knows what they are doing with their own tools is even better. The rule of thumb on pitch (slope) for water runoff (drainage) is one inch for every ten feet. As for drilling holes into existing flatwork for re-bars I have never drilled eight inches into an existing slab. Four is sufficient. BUT drill down on a slight angle, then after pounding the re-bar in, step down on the exposed section of re-bar until one is sure it is two inches below the top of the concrete grade. I have drilled deeper for industrial and foundation projects for the use of heaver re-bar. I have never coated re-bar with grease and do not understand zig zag’s reason for this… unless he is referring to rusted re-bar.

One does not lay concrete, we pour it. The reason all sod and vegetation has to be removed is because it will rot and cause a gap between the ground and the underneath of the concrete. When it cracks (and it will crack), if the concrete is not reinforced this will cause separation of the concrete and unleveling of sections that may cause pedestrians to trip and fall, thus suing you. We never use sand or lose gravel as a base because they do not compact well. Best base for concrete is ¾” crushed limestone with screenings. Be sure to compact it well. One yard of concrete covers an area of 81 square feet at a four-inch depth. When ordering from a ready mix concrete company they will charge a cartage fee for orders under four yards, it is just not profitable to deliver small orders. One can rent the concrete tools necessary pretty much anywhere. The proper tools are of most importance in producing an excellent finish with concrete, and someone who knows what they are doing with their own tools is even better. The rule of thumb on pitch (slope) for water runoff (drainage) is one inch for every ten feet. As for drilling holes into existing flatwork for re-bars I have never drilled eight inches into an existing slab. Four is sufficient. BUT drill down on a slight angle, then after pounding the re-bar in, step down on the exposed section of re-bar until one is sure it is two inches below the top of the concrete grade. I have drilled deeper for industrial and foundation projects for the use of heaver re-bar. I have never coated re-bar with grease and do not understand zig zag’s reason for this… unless he is referring to rusted re-bar.

In areas that get snow, you may wish to keep the sidewalk an inch or so above the surrounding grade. Snow from surrounding areas will melt during the day, water will flow onto the sidewalk and at night the water will freeze. The sidewalk will be like a skating rink the following morning. Sidewalks should slope away from the house.