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Comments on: How to Soundproof a Room

17 Comments From eHow Members

tallullah said

on 1/28/2009 Hi Spencer, Do you mean that I should get a shaggy carpet and glue it over the foam or put the shaggy carpet on the floor? I will lock my son in the room with his wretched computer game and his pals on the end of the line with the shaggy carpet covering his entire body and just slip pizza under the door occasionally. He won't even notice.

Aero87 said

on 12/31/2008 why did u say that this was easy? Sound proofing a room is NOT easy! I don't think you know what "easy" means. You probably think it means "hard", but i have news for you: "easy" means easy. "Hard" means hard, okay. I hope you will consider that in your next eHow article.

SHAYLEIGH said

on 9/17/2007 can you soundproof a floor so we cannot hear the any sound below us

on 8/8/2007 I have spent the past 17 years in the soundproofing business. Noise bleeds through walls structurally. The vibrations connect through the common studs to deliver to the other side. Regardless of what you blow or layer in between the studs, unless you disconnect your wall structure and line it with density you will still have bleed. Many of the postings I see here, along with the hosts comments on how to soundproof a wall are incorrect. For those who want to see a visaul on how to do it, or listen to a before/after broadcast online, go to www.eSoundproof.com. Remember, sound bleeds through fiberglass or foam like water through a sponge. You need density to impair vibrations, and a disconnected framing technique to force the collapse of the transmitting sound wave. Disregard much of what you read above or below this message if you're serious about controlling your noise.

nimley said

on 7/27/2007 The first question is, "do you want to keep the sound in or out of a room?" these are 2 different things. The most common is "in", to not let the sound you make escape. Most common sheetrock built walls with no insulation is a pretty good barrier. Air is the issue. Sound travels first and foremost on air. You need to stop its flow. Doors, windows, around walls, these all need weatherstripping, door sweeps, caulk. Every nook & cranny sealed. You still need air. A window not in a common interior wall but on an exterior wall is ok to skip.

on 1/22/2007 easy soundproof room use bed fome that looks like it holds eggs ... glue to walls and ceilings then get a shaggy carpet ... works great and its cheap

Anonymous said

on 9/15/2006 The easiest way to improve noise reduction through walls is to add a layer of Soundproof drywall, such as QuietRock or other brands. These products can be placed directly over existing walls and reduce noise by 50% or more.

Anonymous said

on 8/8/2006 See www.soundproofing.org for the up-to-date methods and products to do effective sound control.

Anonymous said

on 2/14/2006 I used MDF and Drywall Scraps cut into varying thicknesses and shapes and used liquid nail to attach it to the back of the drywall. It acts like a waveguide to redirect and eventually kill the sounds from my home theater. This basically creates an anechoic chamber inside the drywall. Then I filled it with fiberglass insulation and siliconed the studs lightly to keep the drywall from radiating the lower frequencies into the space and drywalled as usual.

Anonymous said

on 1/25/2006 This will be more expensive, but will sound proof a dry wall far more effectively.

When building, build a drywall as you normally would, with one side plastered. Then, build a second wall with studs in different places from the first wall a short space away from it. Fill this with fiberglass or whatever you choose as a deadening material.

The reason this will work a lot better is because it stops transmission of sound through the actually wooden studs.

Anonymous said

on 12/12/2005 Never use egg cartons for acoustical applications! Whenever you hear or read about this, run, don't walk. Egg cartons have a relatively narrow range of absorption which basically increases with increasing frequency. As for their use as diffusers, the size of the egg surfaces roughly correspond to the wavelength of a 9KHz tone, which is purely in the harmonic region for musical and speech tones. And if you really want a scare, take one of these outside and see how easily and quickly they can catch fire. They are a fire hazard. There is a substantial difference between sound transmission (loss), and interior acoustics involving things such as absorption, diffusion. Unfortunately egg cartons are not very effective for either.

Anonymous said

on 11/22/2005 Take large egg crates and staple to the existing wall uniformly and together. The protrusions facing out. I prefer the compressed paper type egg crates. Use paint sealer first, then paint to your liking. Use a spray rig to paint if you can. You can use regular egg crates by cutting off the lids but this is much more time consuming. Now you have a funky soundproof wall that'll have everybody talking.

Anonymous said

on 11/22/2005 Acoustic foam should never be considered a soundproof barrier. The foam reflects sound it doesn't absorb sound. Yes, one can say that acoustical foam can absorb sound, but it is quite marginal if effective.

Anonymous said

on 11/22/2005 You can get 1/2 inch sound-deadening boards that go over the insulation and under the drywall. It should cost less than $10 for one 8x4 foot board. For my 12x16 foot shed it'll cost about $160. I'm going to try this and see how well it works. I'm thinking about doing this on the ceiling too.

Anonymous said

on 11/22/2005 See www.soundproofing.org for the up-to-date methods and products to do effective sound control.

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