Comments on: How to Change Your Motor Oil

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LucyAhmed

LucyAhmed said

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on 9/13/2008 I just changed my car engine oil. Thank you very much for the instruction. But one thing, I found the oil filter wrench was not easy to use - either it won't grab or keep slipping off. It would be very helpful if this demonstration shows how to handle the oil filter wrench too. Lucy

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on 6/17/2008 well said.. helps a lot..

toddjos

toddjos said

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on 4/1/2008 The video on this one is not working for me. There are some pictures on this page that helped me.http://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_change_oil_filter.htm this helped me.

toddjos

toddjos said

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on 4/1/2008 The video on this one is not working for me. There are some pictures on this page that helped me.http://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_change_oil_filter.htm this helped me.

toddjos

toddjos said

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on 4/1/2008 The video on this one is not working for me. There are some pictures on this page that helped me.http://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_change_oil_filter.htm this helped me.

marcat

marcat said

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on 3/15/2008 If you can, use surgical rubber gloves when changing oil. It is much easier to clean and wash hands after. Don't forget to dispose the used gloves properly. These gloves are very usefull in other clean-up tasks as well.

marcat

marcat said

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on 2/26/2008 If you can, use surgical rubber gloves when changing oil. It is much easier to clean and wash hands after. Don't forget to dispose the used gloves properly. These gloves are very usefull in other clean-up tasks as well. Marcat

marcat

marcat said

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on 2/26/2008 If you can, use surgical rubber gloves when changing oil. It is much easier to clean and wash hands after. Don't forget to dispose the used gloves properly. These gloves are very usefull in other clean-up tasks as well. Marcat

CarDummi

CarDummi said

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on 10/8/2007 I cannot get the bolt free from the oil pan; it is frozen. I have tried sockets, hammers and even a power wrench. Thoughts?

CarDummi

CarDummi said

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on 10/8/2007 I cannot get the nut free; it is frozen. I have tried socket wrenches, hammers, and even a power wrench. Thoughts?

eHobayyeb

eHobayyeb said

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on 7/20/2007 Where is Items List??

butt3rfly

butt3rfly said

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on 7/16/2007 Another thing to keep in mind when you are removing your oil plug; if you drive a manual/standard transmission, to be sure you are removing the oil plug and not the transmission plug! On some cars, they look very similar!!

whatstuff

whatstuff said

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on 1/5/2007 you might want to look up the wikipedia article on motor oil. the 3000 mile /3 month oil change rule is apparently a "mith" endorced by the oil changing companies, and engine wear and tear happenes more on the first 1000-2000 miles after the oilchange because of the initial settleing of the oil. Most car owners manual will tell you to change oil after 6000 miles or so.

Anonymous

Anonymous said

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on 1/5/2007 When draining your engine oil, get it hot first by going for a drive, and checking that the temperature guage has moved up.

Remove oil filler cap first, before removing drain plug, as this prevents any vacuum for occurring and helps to maintain a steady oil flow carrying with it any grit or contaminants which may be in the old oil.

Anonymous

Anonymous said

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on 8/8/2006 Change the oil after regular driving to avoid idling the car to warm up the engine. Take a good look at the position of the oil plug's location, on my car it is on the passenger side of the oil pan. Use a ramps or jack stands to "lean the car" toward the plug, much in the way you would to get the last bit of water out of a water jug spigot to ensure full drainage.
Use a Fram Sure Drain Plug, it replaces the regular oil plug for one that twists off a protective cap and just hand screw a hose with a special end that releases the oil when it is fully seated. This avoids the unwelcome splatter and you can aim it directly into any opened container without worrying it trickling away from the opening - they can be found at WalMart. If you use a regular plug, use the box end of a wrench to avoid rounding the corners with the open end, use a ratchet when possible with a pull motion to avoid stripping your knuckles. Let the oil drain for at least a 15-30 minutes, the longer the better - the most contaminated oil are the last few drops. While it drains use this time to check the tires, belts, boots, lights, spare tire, etc.
Always change the oil filter, they're cheap, the old one may be full of contaminants. Clean the engine filter seat (you don't won't to contaminate a new filter) and hand tighten "snug" to avoid using a oil filter wrench in the future after lubing the filter's seal w/ oil. Oil won't drip because the engine's heat will cause the filter and gasket to expand tightening the seal further. Cap the oil plug and fill by the amount recommended by your owner's manual w/ filter change.
Set the car back on level ground and wait ten minutes to check the oil level again. You can check it at five but many people jump the gun to check it, which is why I recommend ten. Check other fluids while your underneath the hood.
As always recycle your oil AND FILTER!

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