Return to article: How to Become a Horse Trainer
on 5/21/2008 A horse trainer is not the same as a riding instructor tho many instructors erroneously refer to themselves as trainers. College is the best place to start eg Findley, Ohio and include finances in your studies. Understand that it is very difficult to make money in the horse game. Secondly, do an "internship" with a reputable trainer and ask for recommendations regarding the trainer. Ride, ride and ride. Experience is essential. The more horses you ride, the more you will learn.
on 5/21/2008 Instructor does not equal trainer!! Many people erroneously believe that being a teacher/instructor is the same as being a trainer and nothing is further from the truth. The majority of instructors could not break a baby and teach it anything. My kudos especially to those western "cowboys" that actually teach the horses something. Start them as western and switch the horses to english.
on 5/4/2007 If you want to be a good horse trainer, one easy step is just to observe horses. Watch them where they can't see you & were they can. Observe if the horse your training is dominate or not.
on 8/31/2006 Remember, anyone can go to college. It’s what they do with their training, and how they treat the horses that defines who they are as a trainer.Trainers who say they can’t deal with people probably aren't worth being around. People bring horses to stables; the horses don’t bring themselves.
on 8/8/2006 When you start a horse you want something soft on the horse's mouth so it doesn't dig in to the sides nor puncsure his mouth. I recomend a D-ring snaffle. It is long enough so it does't pinch and it is a soft confortable bit. Also if you ride with a one ear bridle, dont any more cause it just makes the ear sore, use a two ear peice so it doesn't just put pressure on one ear. This will make it even pressure on both ears.. Some student have asked me " I am going to put up a training corral and a indoor arena." I am going to tell you what i told them.TRAINING CORRAL:At the max have it 50 feet by 50 feet, square with 6 inches of sand to tire the colt out. You say square why not round. Well if you are riding a bronc you could steer him into a corner and save yourself. If it is round then the horse will just keep on following the fence. Same with my cutting arena, I like to have my horse dig deep. So i use about 3-4 inches of sand and i dont just want the cow following the fence line. I want him to give my horse some action. This is also good for the starting cutting or working cow horse.If anyone needs some information on training or working with horses . I would be happy to help you. My email is cadillac_kody@hotmail.comThis is some valuable information.
on 8/8/2006 Being able to understand the horse is a very important factor when training a horse. Horses aren't like humans, they can't tell us what is wrong but they have their own language that we need to be able to read and understand. It's like learning a new language, at first it's hard but then you study it enough, and soon it's just natural to you. Same with horses. If you study a certain horse long enough you should be able to understand their language, and that will help you to have a better relationship with the horse because you will be able to understand them.
on 7/12/2006 I've often found that the horse doesn't necessarily have bad habits, it's the rider. Countless times I've gone to ride a horse for a friend, and they say "If you do this, he'll buck you off." and "If you do that, he'll run away with you," then the horse performs beautifully for me. Make sure you are riding correctly, or you could be wasting your money on a horse that doesn't need training. Take riding lessons instead.Having said that, if you do know what you are doing, and your horse has a serious vice, get a trainer. It's worth it.
on 2/14/2006 As technology and horse knowledge advance, so does the realization that natural horsemanship is a more effective way of life with horses. Developing a strong, natural relationship with your horse, and ones you train, can lift a huge burden from your shoulders. I strongly recommend reading about Natural Horsemanship. It's fun, easy, and opens up a whole new world of working with horses.
on 1/13/2006 I currently have a trainer working with my horse, and I have learned to always ask questions about what your trainer is doing with your horse. If you think your trainer is lying to you, ask questions. After all, it is your horse and your money. Also, take your time looking for a good trainer; it never helps to rush things. Ask friends with horses if they know of any good, experienced trainers that are available.
on 11/22/2005 When you start a horse you want something soft on the horse's mouth so it doesn't dig in to the sides nor puncsure his mouth. I recomend a D-ring snaffle. It is long enough so it does't pinch and it is a soft confortable bit. Also if you ride with a one ear bridle, dont any more cause it just makes the ear sore, use a two ear peice so it doesn't just put pressure on one ear. This will make it even pressure on both ears.. Some student have asked me " I am going to put up a training corral and a indoor arena." I am going to tell you what i told them. TRAINING CORRAL: At the max have it 50 feet by 50 feet, square with 6 inches of sand to tire the colt out. You say square why not round. Well if you are riding a bronc you could steer him into a corner and save yourself. If it is round then the horse will just keep on following the fence. Same with my cutting arena, I like to have my horse dig deep. So i use about 3-4 inches of sand and i dont just want the cow following the fence line. I want him to give my horse some action. This is also good for the starting cutting or working cow horse. If anyone needs some information on training or working with horses . I would be happy to help you. My email is cadillac_kody@hotmail.com This is some valuable information.
on 11/22/2005 From the moment you step into the stall to halter your horse you make sure that your horse respects you, maintains boundaries with you, and has a submissive posture and expression. If you can, obtain this with calm and gentle reminders. However, if the behavior persists, you need to increase the effectiveness of your reminder until the horse responds. Once the horse responds you immediately stop the reminder and that is a reward. If your horse is unruly in the cross ties, you ask him to be still. If he is standing at an angle, you ask him to stand square. If he walks ahead of you when you lead, you take a crop and put it in front of him. If he does not respond, you wiggle it, if he does not respond, you tap him in the chest with it. If he walks too close to you, you wiggle the crop between you to make him move out. If this does not work, you tap him on the side to make him move out. Soon he will be respectful of your space and of his manner. Always watch his look and actions and don't allow anything except what is deemed as good manners. He does not know unless you tell him. He will be comforted by knowing you are the leader and he does not have to vie for leadership.
on 11/22/2005 Persistence is the key! You have to be persistent and patient with horses especially the youngsters. You want to be firm but you don't want the horse to be afraid of you. You want to praise them when they do well but get at them if the act wrong. Once they do what you want lay off the pressure right away. Remember the 3 P's, Persistence, Patience, and Praise!
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