Visual inspection will usually tell you if they are bad. Battery cables/wires typically go bad by them cracking/breaking, or a more common scenario is that the metal connection ends get corroded. Either of these events will reduce conduction. Many times you can clean corroded terminal ends by brushing clean with a wire brush or using sandpaper. In the case of cracking, replacing them is suggested, although sometimes you can tape over small cracks or breaks with electrical tape. There should never be any bare wire showing. There is really not a suggested time interval to replace them as long as they are in good condition with clean connections.

Chasgray, The bombs I suggest do "not" have a residual effect and are only harmful as they pass through the air killing the insects that they come in contact with at that time. However, if the non residual bombs are used incorrectly, too many set off per square footage requirement for instance, not following the label, this would be an over kill and you may end up with an oily residual that could be harmful. Without getting too technical here....Use non residual bombs, follow the label "exactly", cover all linens or remove them completely, remove all toys or items the child may put in their mouth, air out the house for 30 minutes or so before re entry of family, check for any oily residues that the child may access. basically use common sense in cleaning up, and you will be doing all I can personally think of to insure safety. Also, be sure to set off the bombs in a way that the tip ha

I usually jack up one corner or side of vehicle at a time to get under, always using jack stands for support along with wheel chocks so the car can't roll. Safety glasses are a must to keep the debri out of your eyes. This is a dirty job laying on your back. Scrub and degrease first, sand off loose flakes and ready for undercoat and paint if you like. Makes a huge difference when the underside of the car is done as well!

Very informative and insightful!

Hi, I wouldn't eliminate the primer in any event since this will help the paint and/or clear with color adhere to the original surface, and if you are painting over bare metal I would suggest an epoxy or self-etching primer after you have scuffed up the metal with a 320 grit sand paper. Regarding clear with color in it already, I am aware of some urathane type based paints that have a protectant or clear built right into the paint. This is called a single stage paint, even though you are still using a primer to start with, but you are avoiding the clear coat finish. In my opinion you are still better off with a regular primer first, then wheel paint, or a heavy duty paint, and then seperate coats of clear afterwards, the heavy duty clear meant for wheels. This special clear is thicker and since wheels take a lot of road abuse, you need a heavy protectant. The single stage with th

Very interesting. I learned something about myself today. I tend to go with blues and light greens. Thanks

This is GREAT and so true...Yes, I am guilty of this often.. I LOVE IT!

You know your stuff and I feel your passion. Great article!

Great. Very simple to make! Thanks

Really good Tips! Thanks