Types of Saris

Saris are commonly worn in India, with different styles in each region. femmes en saris image by harmonie57 from Fotolia.com

Worn across the Indian subcontinent, saris are the traditional dress of women throughout the region. Consisting of a long strip of lightweight cloth, saris are wrapped around the body at the waist with the remainder draped over the shoulder. Many regional variations of sari exist, each with a specific fabric, print and drape.

Northern Sari Styles

Northern India is renowned for its richly woven silk saris. Banarasi saris in particular are known for the quality of their silk, gold brocade and intricate, Mughal-inspired embroidery. Banarasi saris are coveted throughout India and are only worn for important occasions like weddings. They are draped in the typical Gujurathi style, that is, with a long portion of the cloth pulled forward over the right shoulder and draped across the chest. A short blouse called a choli is worn for modesty, although the back is revealed in northern-style saris.

Southern Sari Styles

The southern region of India has many regional variations of saris, in terms of both fabric and draping patterns. Most southern saris adhere to a modest form of draping, with the skirt pleated along the front with the pallu, or loose end, pulled across the chest and draped over the left shoulder. This effectively conceals the front of the choli, or blouse, for modesty and also allows for ease of movement without fear of accidentally revealing the chest. Fabric in southern Indian saris tends to be lightweight, breathable cotton that is suitable for the steamy, tropical climate. Some lightweight silk is also used, although it is uncommon due to its cost.

Eastern Sari Styles

The Himalayan and Bangladeshi influence in eastern sari styles is reflected in the fabric and ornamentation used. Kantha, in particular, is a prevalent embroidery style used throughout the east. Originally a practical response to avoid purchasing new garments, kantha uses old, worn-out sari fabric pieced together and embroidered in a patchwork fashion. Small mirrors, gold thread and colorful animal and floral motifs are used in the creation of kantha embroidered saris. Baluchari saris, another popular eastern style, are known for the intricate mythological scenes woven into the cloth. Typically, the scenes are woven only into the ends of the cloth.

Western Sari Styles

Some of the richest saris in India come from the western regions of Rajasthan and Maharashtra. Patola saris are one of the most time-consuming and intricate types available, often using gold and silver thread woven into geometric patterns reminiscent of the ancient Islamic architecture of the region. Bandhani saris are commonly worn in everyday life throughout western India. Known for their tie-dye patterns and use of dark, natural colors, Bandhani saris are typically black, green, yellow or red in color with geometric or floral patterns stamped or embroidered into the cloth after dyeing. Western saris are worn in the northern style with an open back and cropped blouse, although it is common to see the pallu, or loose end of the sari, draped over the head instead of across the chest.

References

• "The Sari: Styles, Patterns, History, Technique"; Linda Lynton; 1995
• "Clothing Matters: Dress and Identity in India"; Emma Tarlo; 1996
• "Tradition and Beyond: Handcrafted Indian Textiles"; R. Kapur Chishti; 2000