The silver coastal fog of the Bay Area gives way to Mediterranean sunshine as you head north. Napa Valley, in the California county of the same name, is famous for its vineyards, but it also attracts crowds with its gorgeous countryside, cosmopolitan villages and old-world attention to simple pleasures of food and drink. While summer is unquestionably the busiest time in Napa, each of the four seasons sings its own siren song.

Spring

Wildflowers and crisp bright days entice you in Napa Valley in springtime. March, April and May are lovely almost anywhere, but particularly so in Napa, where wildflowers fill uncultivated fields and low hills. One outing to consider is the Wildflower Show and Plant Sale sponsored by the Napa Valley Chapter of the California Native Plant Society. This annual event takes place in early April in Napa’s beautiful Skyline Wilderness Park and allows gardeners to stock up for their own backyards, but a spring hike around the park might prove equally delightful. Skyline is a true wilderness area so you have to leave Fido at home, but the low-cost, first-come-first-served camping may be worth the separation anxiety. Another ideal spot to admire nature is the 240-acre Missimer Snell Wildflower Preserve, managed by the Land Trust of Napa. Allow yourself to be seduced by the beauty and diversity of the spring wildflowers that grow in the serpentine grassland habitat in the spring. Many Bay Area wildflower fans make this spot an annual pilgrimage.

Summer

Winter rains start tapering off in March and by the time June rolls around in Napa Valley, only the truly paranoid carry umbrellas. Between Memorial Day and Labor Day, temperatures hover between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, days are long, skies are blue and the emerald green vineyards are bursting with vigor. On the other hand, summer is the most crowded visiting season, and most travelers experience delays along winding Highway 29 between St. Helena and Calistoga. Be sure to reserve accommodations and restaurants in advance. Dining al fresco is always delightful, and if you visit in July, consider hitting the Napa County Fair and Fireworks that happens for five days around the July 4 holiday. In addition to the agricultural exhibits, you'll find live music, art shows, cooking demonstrations, wine and olive oil tastings. It's really a great way to taste-test Napa Valley, with a sampling of its many pleasures.

Fall

Grapes are picked and crushed in the autumn, and all of Napa Valley celebrates Bacchus' bounty with fairs, festivals and fun. The exact harvest dates depend on the weather, but it usually begins toward early August and lasts for several months. Don't expect to see much of the action unless you arrive early; picking and stomping is often completed by early morning. But you can try stomping yourself at an old-fashioned harvest stomp at Schweiger Vineyards, on top of Spring Mountain. At this annual event, you can pick grapes and stomp them yourself, then sit down to a catered lunch and enjoy the views over Napa. Another fun visit is lovely Grgich Hills Estate Winery, 15 miles north of Rutherford. It is open for wine tasting from 9:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. daily except major national holidays. Grgich plants 366 acres of grapes in Napa County and grows them without artificial fertilizers, pesticides or herbicides. After all the grapes are picked, the grape vines flash into stunning shades of gold and scarlet, and cool weather begins to creep back in around the edges of the day.

Winter

The entire Napa Valley seems to breath a sigh of relief as the busy grape season fades into the serenity of winter, and tourist crowds dwindle. Napa winter should not conjure up images of frosty fields and icy breezes. Daytime temperatures stay around 50 degrees, but rain does fall December through February. Most surprising to the uninitiated is the drama of seeing brilliant yellow mustard grass carpeting the dormant vineyards, creating a contrast of great appeal. As legend has it, passing Spanish missionaries sprinkled mustard seeds in Napa Valley long ago, creating a yellow swath of flowers behind them that returns every year. The show starts in January and continues through March, when vineyard owners plow the nitrogen-rich plant back into the soil.

About the Author

From Alaska to California, from France's Basque Country to Mexico's Pacific Coast, Teo Spengler has dug the soil, planted seeds and helped trees, flowers and veggies thrive. World traveler, professional writer and consummate gardener, Spengler earned a BA from U.C. Santa Cruz, a law degree from Berkeley's Boalt Hall, and an MA and MFA from San Francisco State. She currently divides her life between San Francisco and southwestern France.

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