Traditional & Contemporary Tailoring Techniques

Tailoring is an art that has been around for a very long time, and continues to develop. Contemporary tailoring is characterized by the use of sewing machines and the ability to complete garments very quickly. Traditional tailoring usually involves by-hand alterations, without the use of modern technologies. Though more labor intensive and time consuming, traditional techniques can sometimes yield better results.

The Beginnings

Tailoring is characterized by custom fits designed specifically for individuals' bodies. In the beginning, almost all clothes were tailor made, or made-to-order. The tailored suit became popular in the early 1800s when it became the outfit of choice for European men. Tailoring for women began in the 1600s, but was reserved for the wealthy. Tailored clothing for women was characterized by the lack of motion it allowed due to corsets and tight-fitting jackets. In the late 1800s women joined men in wearing tailored suits, usually comprised of a skirt and a matching jacket, for formal events.

Changing Styles

One aim of tailoring has always been to highlight the human body. Under the traditional techniques of the early 1800s, this was done in a much different way than it is today. Woman wore hooped petticoats under their dresses to make them larger, and men's suit coats had no padding at all. Clothing was constructed differently than today because of the limited tools and techniques that came with them. Also, the number of pattern pieces used to make each garment was limited by a desire to save money by conserving as much fabric as possible. Tailoring tools and techniques have since progressed. Fabric is more readily available, and more people can afford and have come to expect tailoring services. Tailoring styles have also changed to highlight the aspects of the body different societies find attractive today.

Deconstruction

Deconstruction became popular in the late 1900s. Unlike traditional garments, clothing made in this fashion appears to have little inner structure and can look unfinished and have frayed edges. This type of clothing is typically dark and can even seem to be made of recycled materials, and is meant to evoke feelings of poverty and devastation. Just the same, this style of clothing required careful tailoring, which meant that it could only be worn by those of some means. Deconstruction was one of the many changing styles of tailoring that signaled the path from traditional to contemporary views.

Technical Examples

There are many pointed differences between traditional and contemporary tailoring techniques that highlight not only the different styles of different time periods, but also the different capabilities of seamstresses and tailors. Traditionally, the front and collars of jackets were shaped with horsehair canvas and hand pad stitches. The contemporary counterpart to this technique uses fusible interfacing, which requires less labor -- but the results may not be as accurate, or as long-lasting. Also, traditional buttonholes are referred to as bound buttonholes and require cutting and sewing the button hole by hand, while the contemporary method uses a computerized sewing machine in most cases.

References

• The Museum at FIT: The Tailor's Art
• Art Daily: Tailoring
• "Jackets, Coats, and Suits"; Threads Magazine