Tips for Sewing a Handkerchief Hem

Hems add the finishing touch to any handkerchief.

Handkerchiefs make elegant gifts for brides and for young woman's hope chest. Handmade handkerchiefs, especially monogrammed ones, are coming back in style at upscale linen shops and department stores. High-quality linen can be purchased from linen companies on the Internet or from a fabric stores. You can sew your own handkerchiefs and hem them with success if you follow a few simple steps.

Preparation

Pure linen can be ironed on the highest setting.

Launder and iron the handkerchief before attempting to hem it. These steps are important key elements to the success of the hem. Iron the handkerchief with a heat setting corresponding to the handkerchief's fabric. Take special care to iron the corners and ends and use an appropriate ironing board. If your handkerchiefs are embroidered or monogrammed, lay them on a washcloth or a towel to protect them before ironing them. Ironing handkerchiefs will help the hemming process go much smoother.

Folding

Some linens need dry cleaning only and become softer with use.

Fold the edges of the handkerchief about 1/4 of an inch, one side at a time. Iron each fold as you go. As you iron each fold flat, pin the fold in place with small straight pins. Fold the corners under each other and pin them in place, so that each corner lies flat in a neat fold. Folding and pinning will help the handkerchief slide through the sewing machine when you are ready to sew the hem.

Turning

Place your sewing machine in a well-lit area.

One of the keys to successfully sewing a handkerchief is to turn it beneath the presser foot. Line the needle up 1/8 inch from the edge of the handkerchief. Sew along the 1/8-inch line until the needle reaches it to 1/8-inches from the corner and stop. Turn the handkerchief one turn to the left or to the right by lowering the needle and lifting the presser foot. Drop the presser foot and sew the next edge by following same instructions before turning the handkerchief again. Continue turning each corner until the needle reaches the beginning point where you began sewing.

Pins

Straight pins with balled tips can cause the hem to become uneven.

Choose high-quality dressmaker pins when sewing a handkerchief hem. Avoid using bent, rusted or large pins that could poke holes in the delicate handkerchief fabric. Avoid using too many pins or pins that have balled ends, as these ends can get caught beneath the presser foot. As you sew around the hem, remove the pins to keep them from getting caught in the presser foot or in the fabric as you turn the handkerchief.

References

• Tasha Fashion Site: Apparel and Fabric Care

Resources

• All Free Sewing: Free Patterns to Keep You in Stitches
• The Ulster Linen Co., Inc.: Ironing Tips