Types of Herringbone Suit Materials

A herringbone suit was famously worn by Sean Connery in "You Only Live Twice."

Herringbone suits came to the height of popularity in the 1940s. Their combination of heavy construction, durability and formality marked them out as the ideal suit for a working man, projecting authority and status while still looking stylish and, crucially, being hard-wearing. However, herringbone is a broad term that covers several different kinds of fabric.

Heavyweight Herringbone

Like all herringbone, heavyweight herringbone is a twill material with a diagonal weave that resembles the patterning of herring bones. The difference with heavy herringbone is in the thickness of the material used and how densely it's woven. The thicker material often uses 1/2-inch thread and due to its added width is much more durable and far less prone to creasing.

Mediumweight Herringbone

Mediumweight herringbone uses thinner thread and a slightly wider weave. Mediumweight herringbone is almost as warm as heavyweight and is similarly resistant to creasing and damage. Its slightly lighter weave makes it more suitable to casual wear than heavyweight herringbone and, due to its being thinner than heavyweight herringbone, it's also more comfortable to wear on a daily basis.

Lightweight Herringbone

Lightweight herringbone is the thinnest type of herringbone, made with light thread and with a light, open weave. While this is used for casual suit jackets or suits to be worn during the warmer months, it's also used to make trousers. This is because the lighter material is more comfortable and allows more ease of leg movement than heavier materials.

Other Types of Herringbone

Herringbone is not a weave unique to wool. Cotton woven in a herringbone pattern is often used for bag straps and belts as well as casual jackets. It's also a popular material for boxing and martial arts handwraps, the material worn under gloves to protect a fighter's hands. This is because while the material is extremely durable, it's softer and more comfortable to wear on the hands than wool.

References

• Dressing the Man You Love: A Woman's Guide to Purchasing, Coordinating, and Caring for His Classic Wardrobe; Betsy Durkin Matthes; 2006
• Ralph Lauren: Style Guide
• A Suit That Fits: Colors and Fabrics
• The Guide to Men's Suits: Herringbone Suits
• The Tailor's Art: Menswear Fabrics: A Glossary
• The Joy of Hand Weaving: Osma Gallinger Tod; 1977