17th-Century Hairpieces

The pomp and circumstance of the 17th-century royal courts was one to behold. Portraits of monarchs and their courts exude ceremony and wealth. The fashion trends of the time were set or broken by the tastes of the ruling class. A particular fashion item that is iconic for its opulence and place as a status symbol is the hairpiece, or wig, of the 17th century.

Early Style

Though certainly not a new invention by the early 17th century, the wig began to emerge as a fashion accessory. The fashionable trend of the time leaned toward wearing the hair in long locks. Because not all men were able to naturally grow this hairstyle, or suffered from baldness, many turned to full wigs or hair attachments in order to help achieve this desired look. For many, it might have also been more hygienic for those suffering from head lice to shave their natural hair and replace it with a wig.

Mid-Century

The middle of the 17th century saw a surge in the popularity of the wig. As the wig started to see more usage by various monarchs throughout Europe, including Charles II and Louie the XIII, the style trickled down through the courts and to the other classes. The wig became a fashion accessory in its own right and no longer was used to supplement or replicate a natural hairstyle. This explosion of popularity grew the wig industry rapidly. In 1665, the first Parisian wig makers guild was established by Louie the XIV, followed by other guilds throughout Europe.

Louie XIV

Louie the XIV was one of the biggest contributors to the rise and popularity of the wig. The Sun King began to wear wigs when he started to lose his hair at an early age. This style was immediately copied by his court. As years passed, Louie the XIV took to wearing larger and more elaborate hairpieces. At their largest, his wigs stood up from the top of his head in two large horns before falling across his shoulders and back in a mass of locks. Copying the fashion of the king became a symbol of status and power among the aristocracy. The popularity of this style didn't begin to decline until after Louie the XIV's death in 1715.

Late Century

The fashionable style of the wig stayed fairly consistent throughout the end of the 17th century. The wigs were styled neater with the curls tight and carefully arranged as the century progressed. It was fashionable to pull the mass of curls over one shoulder and let the rest fall down the back. In the later 17th century, a shorter version of this wig also began to appear. This style was just as full but was less restrictive and easier to wear and was favored by soldiers or worn during sport. The famous powdered wig that many attribute to the upper-class aristocrat during this era didn't actually appear until the 18th century.

References

• Nicole Kipar's Late 17th Century Clothing History: Male Hairstyles
• "A history of costume": Karl Köhler, et al.; 1963
• Periwig Direct: History of Wigs
• The American Historical Review: Big Hair: A Wig History of Consumption in Eighteenth-Century France