Bohemian Clothing Styles in the Late 19th Century
Bohemianism refers to a counter-culture movement that started in Paris in the 19th century. At that time, clothing styles were important factors that set artists and writers apart from upper-class capitalists. Although no strict rules applied to the dress code of bohemians, artists taking part in this movement wanted, most of all, to showcase their non-traditional lifestyles through their clothing choices. The poor look, romantic medievalism, aesthetic dress and dandyism are all styles of the bohemian clothing movement of the late 19th century. Does this Spark an idea?
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The Poor Look
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As many artists lived in state of poverty in 19th century Paris, the "poor look" was attributed to bohemians. This look consisted of simple cuts, cheap fabrics and even second-hand, worn-out clothes. However, not all artists were poor. Some merely dressed poorly to show their careless lifestyle, even when living in hotels. When adopting the poor look, bohemians wanted to show the Parisian society that the arts had more importance than social status and money in their lives.
The Romantic Medievalism
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Some bohemians in the late 19th century rescued former fashion styles as their own, a movement called "romantic medievalism," although it was not only related to medieval garments. Bohemians could wear clothes that sometimes resembled fancy dresses, and often mixed garments typical for distinct historical periods, such as the breeches, or men's short pants, of the Renaissance and the plain tunics of the Middle Ages. It was also part of the romantic outfit to look pale, cadaverous and livid, as if being devoured by the passion of an unreachable muse.
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Aesthetic Dress
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The aesthetic dress style called for more comfortable clothes, especially among women. Gowns with wide armholes and full sleeves allowed freedom of movement and were worn without corsets, which was shocking for most Parisians. Chemical aniline dyes were rejected in favor of soft natural tints, such as indigo and sage green. Outlandish as this bohemian style seemed to be, it started to influence European fashion by the end of the 19th century.
Dandyism
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Dandyism refers to the excessive flamboyance and decadence in which some bohemians chose to dress. The so-called dandies were generally men who adopted aristocratic manners and gave their physical appearance uttermost importance. A typical dandy outfit consisted of a tight-fitting coat with golden buttons, a colorful waistcoat and pearl grey trousers. The dandy considered himself as a work of art, a perfect blurring between art and life, which was characteristic of bohemianism.
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