Non Traditional Fashion Models

Female model Casey Legler gets prepped to walk the catwalk as a male model for Michael Bastian during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

Can high fashion have it both ways with models? While the fashion industry is known for setting rather limited standards of beauty with its often rail thin models, recently the industry has began to embrace the unconventional. Gender bending models, ones with unique or interesting features, and those who come in every shape and size have come to be celebrated by the industry that once excluded them. The rise of unconventional models could indicate a shift in the way we perceive beauty and suggest a more inclusive approach with gender, age and body. Does this Spark an idea?

Different Shapes, Sizes and Ages

In womens fashion modeling, straight models or "standard sized" models are typically between 5 feet 9 inches and 5 feet 10 inches, with a bust between 32 and 36 inches, a waist between 22 and 26 inches, and hips between 33 and 35 inches. They are usually between the ages of 16 and 21. Although these measurements are rather limiting, anything else would be considered outside of the norm. With the rise of "fatshion" blogs or blogs for plus-size women, the fashion industry has taken measures to address the disparity between what models look like and what the average woman does. The first British Plus-Size Fashion Weekend was held during London Fashion Week in 2012. Plus-size model Crystal Renn turned top model after working in five major ad campaigns, seven French "Vogue" spreads, walked two Chanel shows, and worked with top photographers such as Steven Klein and Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott in 2011. In addition, the fast fashion outlet H&M quietly launched their 2013 swimwear collection using plus-size model Jennie Runk to model the clothing without ever once mentioning that she was "plus-size" or "different from a regular model." Similarly, the London retailer Debenham's new campaign features models of many ages, complexions, sizes and even persons with physical disabilities.

Rise Of Trans-women

Andrej Pejic is the first high fashion transgendered model. Pejic was born a male; although, it is often speculated that Pejic identifies as a trans-woman. While Pejic has not had sexual reassignment surgery or hormone therapy, he has very feminine features and appears female to most people. Pejic has walked the runway for Marc Jacobs and Jean-Paul Gaultier, has appeared on the covers of numerous magazines including "Elle," "New York" and the Taiwan "Vogue." He was also voted as 98th place in "FHM's" 2011 list of the 100 Sexiest Women. Pejic has made a career of modeling as both male and female and has paved the way for other transgendered female models like Arisce Wanzer, Brazilian model Lea T., and Isis King who famously competed in "America's Next Top Model."

She's The Perfect Man

Casey Legler is a 6 foot 2 inches, 35-year-old woman who is the first of her gender to be signed to work exclusively as a male model with Ford Models. On camera and in photographs Legler appears as a very stylish man due to the angles of her sharp jawline, her short haircut and the men's clothing she wears. Ruth Holliday, a professor of gender and culture at Leeds University, told "The Guardian," "Women fashion models are often chosen for their strong features. When they are in make-up (drag) they look very feminine, but without make-up, strong features often make the models look masculine. Spanish model turned academic Patrícia Soley-Beltran, for instance, talks about frequently being mistaken for a man while walking down the street in everyday clothes." Legler is in a league of her own, having never modeled as a woman and currently working her first big gig with All Saints.

Unique And Quirky Features

A growing number of models with unique or odd features have become industry sweethearts. The year 2012 saw a rise in models with gapped teeth like Lindsey Wixon, Georgia May Jagger and Ashley Smith. A "Times" article noted that the fashion industry has grown bored of its own conventional beauty standards and is now seeking models who turn typical"flaws" into signature looks. While "straight-models" who meet the conventional standards of beauty still dominate the industry, the fact that fashion has begun to open its doors to those who stray from the norm could mean that the world of beauty is becoming more accepting.

References

• NY Times: The Generation Gap
• Guardian: Model Casey Legler: Is she the perfect man?
• New Statesman: http://www.newstatesman.com/v-spot/2013/01/andrej-pejic-elle-fashion-industrys-love-affair-boy-who-looks-girl
• ABC News: Genderless: World's Most Popular Male Model Walks Runways in Heels, Dresses
• NY Mag: The Rise Of Plus-Sized Models
• The Daily Beast: The Plus-Sized Blogging Craze
• Debenhams: Debenhams shows diversity in fashion
• Modeling Wisdom: Height, Age, and Measurement Requirements of Modeling
• All Walks: The Rise And Rise Of 'Plus-Size': First British Fashion Weekend
• Jezebel: H&M Shows Collection On Plus-Size Model, Doesn't Make a Big Deal Of It