Sewing a Plus-Size Pencil Skirt
Though they are relatively structured and close fitting, a pencil skirt need not be sewn to a standardized size – instead, it can be sewn to the wearer’s individual measurements. A woman who wears plus sizes will likely find that her waist measurement is 33 inches or more and her hip measurement is 42 inches or more. Since a bolt of fabric is usually 42 inches wide, turn the bolt sideways, so the 42-inch width is used to create the length of the skirt from waist to hem, and you have the entire length of the bolt to work with in cutting and sewing the width of the skirt.
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Measuring and Sizing
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To make the pattern for a pencil skirt, you need measurements for the skirt wearer’s waist, hips, the length between the waist and hip measurements and the wearer’s leg length. To find the measurement for the waist, measure the area where the wearer’s pant waist falls. For the hips measurement, measure around the widest area of the lower body. Often, that’s the hips and buttocks, and is located 7 to 9 inches below the natural waist. Measure the distance between the waist and hip measurements. Also measure down the wearer’s leg, from her waist measurement down to where she wants the hem of the skirt to fall.
Making the Pattern
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Divide the natural waist, waist and hip measurements in two. Add 1 inch to each of those measurements. Fold a piece of pattern or tracing paper lengthwise. Along the fold, measure the length of the leg measurement. Add 2 inches for a seam allowance. Mark the top and bottom of the pattern, at the fold. From 1 inch from the top, measure the length between the wearer’s waist and hips. At the stopping point of that line, measure out from the fold to half the length, plus 1 inch, of the wearer’s hips. At the beginning point of that line, measure out from the fold to half the length, plus 1 inch, of the wearer’s waist. Use that measurement again at the bottom of the skirt. Draw a curved line from those three points, where you measured out from the fold. Cut out the outline of your skirt patter, which you’ve just traced.
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Choosing the Fabric
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Fabrics that skim along as opposed to cling to the body are flattering and easier to sew. Natural, lightweight fabrics, such as cotton or lightweight wool have enough give to allow for comfortable movement for the skirt’s wearer, but don’t have so much elasticity that they’re difficult to sew. They are also stiff enough to hold their tailored shape, which is especially important when creating a tailored silhouette, as with a pencil skirt. Choose a fabric with a pattern that’s a size at scale with the size of the skirt – the pattern shouldn’t be so small that it’s lost when the skirt is seen from conversation distance, but the pattern should also not be so large that the wearer looks dwarfed by it.
Cutting and Sewing
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Cut out two pieces of fabric that fit the paper pattern you made. If desired, you can also cut out two pieces to create a lining for the skirt. Sew the pieces together and hem either end of the skirt. Cut a slit into the waistline of the skirt to sew in a zipper. Cut a slit into the bottom hem of the skirt – a pencil skirt fits closely down the entire length of the leg, so otherwise, the skirt will be difficult to walk in. Hem the edges of the slit. If you must cut the slit high to make the dress more comfortable, and the wearer feels too exposed, consider sewing a piece of contrasting fabric into the slit. When the wearer is standing, the slit will be nearly closed and the fabric will be hidden, but when the wearer is walking, the skirt will have more give.
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References
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