Serger Sewing Basics

Serging produces professional finishes on homemade clothing

A serging machine looks similar to a sewing machine, but they are two different things. A serger is an overlocking machine meant to finish things like hems on clothes. Instead of trimming, stitching and overcasting individually, using a serger allows you to do all three at once. This makes it a great time saver if you know how to use it properly.

Needles

The condition of serger needles is a big concern because bad needles can cause rips or pulls in the fabric. Make sure your needles are in good condition without bends, burrs or dullness. Use needles from the 70-90 range, with size 80 being ideal. Anything larger will not work well. Make sure to use a needle appropriate for the material you are trying to finish. For example, leather and upholstery are so thick that a needle you would use for woven fabrics will not work. Use a leather needle instead, which is designed to puncture the thickness of leather.

Thread Types

A serger finishes hems and stitches but those finishes can be ruined by using the wrong thread. Broken thread and knots can cause a backup in the thread, preventing you from using your serger until you clear the clog. Using a long staple thread instead of regular thread can help prevent these problems. Make sure the thread has very little or no lint buildup, which can also ruin serger finishes. Use a spool cap to make sure that nothing gets caught in the serger's thread spool notch.

Pinning Fabric

Pinning fabric is useful because it marks where the stitches should go, ensuring evenness. The problem with using a serger and pins is that the pins can cause breakage and the timing of the serger to be thrown off. To avoid this, pin fabric about 3 inches from the edge, making sure they are parallel. This should keep them out of the way of the serger's cutting knives and needles, ensuring no breakage.

Removing Serger Stitches

While serging, you may realize that you have done something wrong or want to change the color of the thread. No matter the reason, you can undo the serging using a seam ripper. Run the seam ripper along the looper threads at the top edge of the fabric and cut. This will cut the thread, which you can then gently pull out to remove from the fabric completely. You can now re-serge the material however you see fit.

References

• Utah State University Cooperative Extension; Sewing With Serger Basics; Margie P. Memmot; February 2001
• What the Craft: Serger Basics Tips, Techniques & Advice