Technique for Sewing Tulle
Famously used in tutus, wedding dresses and formal gowns, tulle is a gauzy fabric that adds billowy volume to any garment. Named after the French city of Tulle where the fabric originated, tulle is made of hexagonal mesh patterns that resemble honeycomb. Often made of cotton, silk, polyamide, polyester, lurex or wool, tulle can be sewn into its own skirt, such as a tutu, and underneath gowns to add volume. With a moderate amount of sewing ability, you can successfully sew tulle for whatever clothing project you are working on.
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Needle and Thread Selection
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Before sewing tulle, you need to make sure you have the proper materials on hand. Sewing a delicate fabric such as tulle, you must have a sharp needle. Using a sharp needle ensures that the needle will slide quickly through the delicate fabric and not drag or make runs in the sheer woven tulle. When choosing thread, pick a silk, cotton or polyester thread in a color that coordinates with your tulle color so the stitches will be hidden.
Types of Tutus
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When sewing a tutu, review the four types of tutus to determine which one you want to make. The classical plate tutu is made with a stiff tulle to resemble a pancake design, hence the plate name. Wires are often inserted into the tulle layers to support the pancake form. Classical bell tutus form a bell shape that extends outward from a ballerina's hips. This form is the most traditional ballet tutu shape. Balanchine tutus are a looser tutu that use fewer layers of tulle. They have a softer feel than classical tutus. Romantic tutus are identified by their 3/4 length that extends past the knee. These tutus have only a few layers of tulle to create a light garment that freely flows with a dancer's movements.
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Cutting Tulle
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When cutting tulle for a project, you need a flat surface, a ruler and a rotary cutter. Lay the tulle out flat. Although the fabric is very thin, you only want to cut one layer at a time. Hold the ruler over the top of the fabric to mark your line on the tulle so you cut a straight line. Roll the rotary cutter swiftly over the tulle to cut it with one quick sweep.
Sewing Tulle
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Sewing tulle requires a moderate amount of sewing ability, a sharp needle and a pinch clip. Fold the tulle layers in half until you get three or four layers. Secure the fabric together with a pinch clip, which resembles a duck clip used by a hair stylist to secure large sections of hair. Slide the needle through the tulle and sew the layers together before affixing them to another garment. If tulle layers are going to be fully visible, line the hems with ribbon to cover the thread areas where the layers were sewn together.
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References
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